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The 4 Most Critically Acclaimed Shows of London Fashion Week

Well, that was quick. In case the Technicolor whirlwind--with a bit of 90s minimalism swirled in--that was London Fashion Week blew you by, Report C

Well, that was quick. In case the Technicolor whirlwind--with a bit of 90s minimalism swirled in--that was London Fashion Week blew you by, Report Card has your handily reductive recap of each day's critic's pick for top show.

Saturday, September 15: Sister by Sibling Designers: Joe Bates, Sid Bryan, and Cozette McCreery

  • "Gosh, those Siblings lot don't half put on a good spread. Calling upon W London to host a bespoke afternoon tea, the design trio behind Sister by Sibling--Cozette McCreery, Joe Bates and Sid Bryan ... went one further than just feeding weary fashionistas, they showcased spring/summer 2013's inspirational prints on the French fancies themselves. That's dedication to a fashion-forward scone session that Team Telegraph can definitely get on board with." {

    The Daily Telegraph}

  • "This collection was oozing with attitude and all about having fun." {}
  • "Some of the most impressive outfits were a black fine knit jumper covered in 3D handstitched flowers from Hawthorne & Heaney and pink dresses covered in 'flower beads' in a lime green and pink harlequin pattern--10,000 of them to be exact. Amazing!" {Grazia Daily Magazine}
  • "The team called the show 'Warrior in Woolworths,' inspired by the song of the 1970s band X-Ray Spex, and referred to what they called 'young old-lady outfits.' They included madcap fluffy headdresses with an icon named 'Poly Styrene,' just like the band’s lead singer. It was all rollicking good fun--with some enticing clothes." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "What the Siblings do is a perfect paradigm of the state of British fashion now: cheery, colorful, and well-made, with a sly touch of humorous subversion slipped in somewhere. To wit: You would not have to know the first thing about Poly Styrene and her seventies punk-feminism to fall for the white raffia-frilled top and tube skirt." {}
  • "The smiles (gasp!) throughout and rapturous applause to close--whoops and cheers, in fact--were testimony that here are three friends, three professionals, just doing what they know best." { UK}
  • "Rooted in London street and pop culture, this women's knitwear brand ... is never short on fun and colorful motifs, splashed on twin sets, polos and pencil skirts. Added to their signature sparkly skull and leopard print motifs was vivid Toile de Jouy and Roy Lichtenstein-style brush strokes." {WWD}

Sunday, September 16: Mary Katrantzou Designer: Mary Katrantzou

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  • "Katrantzou deserves to make bank on her bank-note dresses, a stunning set of shimmering gowns that surely must also mark her debut as a red-carpet contender." {The Cut/

    New York Magazine}

  • "Mary Katrantzou pushed the envelope and put her stamp on it." {}
  • "Prints this intriguing must be handled with care, and this is where Katrantzou shows her greatest strength. ... Each pattern was so well placed and well thought out that the overall effect was graphic, crisp, and actually quite flattering." {fashionologie}
  • "Her new palette was fresh and light, but with the unusual subject matter--postage stamps and money--it still had Mary Katrantzou hallmarked all over it." {Grazia Daily Magazine}
  • "T[ook] a rich, cultured aesthetic and use[d] modern technology to make it into something more accessible." {The Guardian}
  • "Mary Katrantzou ... condens[ed] her riotous decoration on 3-D prints into a tightly focused graphic style. ... The result was striking, deceptively simple and in phase with the body in a way that Ms. Katrantzou has never managed before." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "Her hyper prints seemed more toned down this season as she dipped into the faded colors and patterns of postage stamps and currencies, like the old British pound note, that are no longer in circulation." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "Looking at Mary Katrantzou's Spring 2013 collection makes a person go slack-jawed wondering how can she possibly design and execute print after awe-inspiring print, season after season." {Racked National}
  • "An absolute fashion tour de force. She's already proved she can make a ravishing print out of almost anything, and she has applied those prints to some extraordinary silhouettes, but form and content blended so effortlessly today that this felt like the point she'd been aspiring to since she started." {}
  • "The results were lovely, refreshing, wearable, and grown-up, from beginning to end. ... Put it this way: Going by the ecstatic audience reaction as it spilled out into the gardens of Bedford Square, she’ll be minting money with this collection." {}
  • "After last season's stunning drama, you couldn't help but wonder how this could go to the next level--but Katrantzou continually manages to add new layers and dimensions to simply surprise us and win us over. This felt fresh and clean." { UK}
  • "The aesthetic elements of international banknotes ... gave fresh currency to the designer’s signature prints, presented on white backgrounds." {WWD}

Monday, September 17: Christopher Kane Designer: Christopher Kane

  • "[A] captivatingly decadent narrative from start to finish." {Daily Front Row}
  • "There was the occasional veer towards the borderline conventional--a fitted slatey dress was decorated by three small-to-big bows down the thorax--but mostly Kane revelled in his mad-scientist scheming." {

    The Daily Telegraph}

  • "This collection, as inspired as it was grown up, as confident as it was beautiful, put Kane on a level with the best. Miuccia and Raf, watch out." {}
  • "Quirky touches added a undeniably unique touch to Kane's feminine assortment." {FabSugar}
  • "A casual observer of Christopher Kane's Spring 2013 show might not believe it was inspired by Dr. Frankenstein's monster--until he or she saw the nuts and bolts holding some of its dresses together, that is." {fashionologie}
  • "This collection was Christopher Kane at his off-kilter finest." {Grazia Daily Magazine}
  • "T[ook] a bow motif, that symbol of don't-frighten-the-horses ladylike dressing, as the starting point for something bold and sculptural." {The Guardian}
  • "Glamorously modern clothes that are conceptual, cool and comfortable." {The Independent}
  • "The kiss of the modern woman is what Mr. Kane bestows on his collections. He has a keen sense of elegance, but also a dark side. This season that contrast was so deftly interspersed with a couture, bow-trim elegance that the result was compelling." {International Herald Tribune}
  • "A truly awe inspiring collection--even by Kane's masterful high standards." {London Evening Standard}
  • "Mr. Kane’s designs often incorporate childlike gestures, but this time they were strictly part of the seductive packaging, and not at the expense of his very grownup, imaginative fashion. ... The clothes had all the lines of sensible classics, but the strange fabric got under your skin." {On The Runway/The New York Times}
  • "Always forward in his fashions,Mr. Kane took everyday items that would be familiar to any young girl and made them into a wardrobe for an urban woman." {Speakeasy/The Wall Street Journal}
  • "As beautiful and sophisticated as the clothes he showed today were, he's happy to drop a tragic, misbegotten monster into the mix. That dichotomy is where his enchantment lies." {}
  • "Genius is in the illogical impulses that drive creativity--and whether the results communicate the kind of electrical impulse in a woman’s brain that tells her, 'Wow. Weird,' and then a second later: 'And I want it.' Suffice to say, Kane’s runway sequence delivered that visceral effect in wave after wave of cleverly sequenced variety." {}
  • "There's no doubting Kane and what he can come up with next--it's a constant surprise and always clever, which is the nuts and bolts, really, of a great designer." { UK}
  • "An unlikely fashion hero--from his neck bolt to his unwieldy footwear--Frankenstein got the full runway treatment, thanks to daring fashion scientist Christopher Kane." {WWD}

Tuesday, September 18: Meadham Kirchhoff Designers: Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff

  • "English-French design duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff are known for staging riotously fun and different shows, and this season they met expectations with a collection piled high with over-the-top, Marie Antoinette style corsets, bodices, bows and frills." {The Associated Press}
  • "Leggy mods (some nibbling away at sugary sweet cupcakes) bounded out in fantastical getups reminiscent of Marie Antoinette on acid or

    Downton Abbey gone rogue." {Daily Front Row}

  • "'This is the most fashion-referenced collection I’ve done… possibly ever, in conscious and unconscious ways,’ Meadham said. ‘But it was just about pretty things. I wanted beauty, basically. Nothing but beauty.’ Consider it done." {}
  • "The duo ... let rip in their spring 2013 collection with an inspiringly cunning mix of deranged corsetry, fabric flower bedecked boots, tragic heroine doubloons and revealing lace boleros." {Fashion Wire Daily}
  • "Meadham Kirchoff’s Spring Summer 13 show may have been entitled A Cautionary Tale but the only dangerous thing we could sense were our wallets quivering with desire." {Grazia Daily Magazine}
  • "An entirely bewitching collection." {The Independent}
  • "What they did almost reached the realms of couture, and--in the way it insisted on poetry against the odds--stood fully in the line of London creativity that stretches back through the early, broke collections of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano that launched their reputations. " {}
  • "With Shirley Temple ringlets in their hair and every type of ornamentation going, these boys were certainly in the running for the sweetest collection of London Fashion Week." { UK}
  • "Only a few denim pieces and Minnie Mouse T-shirts grounded this extravagant Marie-Antoinette-in-the-street collection." {WWD}