Long Nguyen is the co-founder and style director of Flaunt PARIS--Donatella Versace could not have chosen a more appropriate locale for her Atelier Versace show.
She presented her spring couture collection at Le Centorial, a turn of the century restored building in the Bourse area of Paris which was, at the time of its construction in 1876, a revoluationary architectural project built by Gustave Eiffel's firm. Old traditions met modern steel and glass constructions; the dome of Le Centorial rivaled that of the Grand Palais. So it was fitting that Versace's collection was all about the interplay between structured garments and soft fabrics.
Kristen McMenamy opened the show in a structured pantsuit done in gold pinstripes with 24-carat epaulets. The line of the gold pinstripes delineated the precise cutting techniques employed to craft this suit. Daywear was given more attention this season. I especially liked the gold pinstriped skirt suits and mink gilets worn with wool cigarette pants. A series of baby-doll gowns towards the end of the show demonstrated Versace’s remarkable control in keeping the shapes simple and the embellishments subtle. Case in point: The number Stella Tennant wore to close the show. It was yellow sheer chiffon covering a gold corset with a skirt of pleated tulle embroidered with crystals peaking out. Ms. Versace never fails to fulfill her customers’ demand for sexy outfits. Her couture is always about giving the maximum glamour.