Nostalgia meets modern. 1967 California Music Festival meets '60s folk. East meets West. Unstructured meets structured. Slouchy meets sophistication. These are just a few of the contrasts Chadwick Bell told me he was looking to explore this season, using a rich soundtrack as design inspiration. “I started with Simon and Garfunkel [and then] Carole King. I used to go surfing with my dad at 5 AM and he would always have Carole King on in his big 150s.”
Unlike Bell's spring girl--who was lost and desperately roaming the desert--fall's muse knows exactly where she is going. She’s got a fixed eye on the future, but a nostalgic view of the past in her rearview mirror, and that duality was reflected in the clothes.
Key to this exploration was a focus on outerwear: Richly colored coats in black currant, persimmon, and beetle green with modern edges, but retro details, like roundly sloping silhouettes sitting a few inches off the shoulder and a slightly exaggerated trapeze shape. The coats looked sensual and relaxed, playing against the clean and structured lines of Chadwick’s tailored trousers and boxy tops in neoprene (perhaps a nod to the early morning surfing trips?) and flannel. “I wanted to create wide shapes [to make you wonder], 'What’s under that?'" Looks were styled with large chunky graphical necklaces strung with fist-size resin bangles from Dinosaur Designs, which Bell hoped would add “something worldly” (and almost vaguely tribal) to his designs.