After nearly ten years in the business, Derek Lam has a very precise idea of what kind of show he wants to put on. So precise, in fact, that the designer's adherence to his scheduled show time (the first model walked just 10 minutes after the hour, rather than the standard 30 minute delay) left many editors grumbling and cramped in the small vestibule, craning their necks over photographers and other attendees to get a glimpse of the collection.
But, no matter. Because while Lam's promptness may have left some editors complaining, that same attention to detail and ability to create with precision was very welcome in the clothes.
The collection was that perfect blend of sportswear and minimalism. Everything was simple, but sumptuous and luxurious. The palette consisted almost entirely of camel, grey, black and white save for a gorgeous wine-colored fluffy fur vest and, later, long-sleeve dress.
The neutral palette allowed Lam to play with different textures: There were looks with wool, suede, and macrame panels, for instance; a black leather skirt was cut through with black suede to create a black-on-black "color"-block effect. A favorite outfit of mine was a t-shirt mini dress with leather sleeves, suede bodice, wool skirt and black fringe trim.
Lam seemed to be playing with an abstract woven motif: The black, grey, camel graphic prints recalled a basket weave pattern, as did a similarly arranged shift dress.
The outerwear, as is usually the case with Lam, was truly perfect--in the simplest of ways. The camel toggle coat and minimalist cape coats will no doubt become cherished possessions for years to come.