Erdem got in touch with his dark side this season--quite literally--with an almost entirely-black collection.
It was a bit of an unexpected turn for the designer who first entranced the fashion set with his dainty florals and colored lace--not that he abandoned those motifs entirely. His signature florals were there this season--only darker, moodier, and more three-dimensional. Designers this season seem to be making their standout patterns with texture instead of color--at Erdem, a digitized floral print was created with palettes, giving the impression of a pixelated photo. The print was then matched, or encased, with black sheer panels. Another muted floral print, which appeared on dresses and jackets, looked to be stamped on a kind of brocade or embroidered fabric. Later, a black-on-black rose pattern was created using velvet on wool, a pattern which appeared on sheer paneled eveningwear and outerwear.
Sheer was an important fabric for Erdem this season. Eveningwear was sliced through with the stuff: There were sheer slits at the elbows, shoulders, hems, and waists of dresses. It was also used to create a multi-layered effect--another way Erdem played with texture this season. Fluffy pink marabou looks, for instance, peeked through structured black sheer--and a sprinkling of feathers also accented the center of embellished flowers, which were themselves stamped on black sheer fabric.
Also worth noting: Erdem eyewear, the result of a collaboration with Linda Farrow. The glasses were statement-making and just plain cool looking--boding well for Erdem's future in accessories.