Jonathan Saunders may have originally caught London's eye with his bold silk-screened prints, but in recent seasons the designer has been charming the industry with a quieter, cleaner, and more architecturally-based aesthetic.
This season, Saunders showed perhaps his least prints-heavy collection yet. When there were prints they were subtle: sheer monochromatic spotted fabric--on black and red frocks, and a vine pattern in blue and in red.
Instead, the focus was on the fit and construction of the clothes--both of which were superb. Simply-tailored coats, made of wool or brushed alpaca in camel, and oversized v-neck sweaters were some of the quieter heroes of the collection.
The kinky eveningwear, though, was undoubtedly the star of the show. Saunders put an S&M spin on an otherwise ladylike collection, with glossy rubber-like corsets and bodices that sexed up conservative 1950s-inspired frocks. Other dresses exposed the bras, as if the dress's straps had been hastily pulled down. Some completely sheer garments did away with bras all together. But there were some utterly covetable dresses for the more conservative set too: A structured strapless red dress, which contoured the waist in an almost couture-like way would look spectacular on the back of any Hollywood starlet during red carpet season.