“It’s all about flight for me this season,” Monika Chiang told me at her presentation. The designer drew references from aviation, aviaries (a recurring dream featuring birds), and the army for her latest “warrior chic” (as dubbed by Chris Burch) collection.
“I have this dream where I run faster and faster until I take off into flight. I have this amazing view from above and see the birds are flying.” The idea of air movement was translated with flowy silhouettes like duster coats and shapes like dolman sleeves. Tailoring was military-inspired, with belted army jackets, graphic-shaped minidresses, belted vests, and a loungy, soft khaki jumpsuit with exaggerated wide legs that a modern-day Amelia Earhart would covet. Although there were no feathers in the collection, birds were represented more literally in reproduction—Chiang printed birds in flight across sheer overlays and affixed to bold cuffs, bibs, chokers, and ear cuffs. For Hunger Games fans, some of the bird emblems might look vaguely Mockingjay-like.