Skip to main content

The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 4 of Milan Fashion Week

Minimalism was a good way to get buzz during Saturday's shows (see: Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander). All was not straight and narrower, however. At Emilio Pucci where Peter Dundas has scaled back in recent seasons, the designer set tongues wagging with his embellished-to-the-max microminidresses that adhered to the philosophy of more is more.
  • Author:
  • Updated:

Minimalism was a good way to get buzz during Saturday's shows (see: Bottega Veneta and Jil Sander). All was not straight and narrower, however. At Emilio Pucci where Peter Dundas has scaled back in recent seasons, the designer set tongues wagging with his embellished-to-the-max microminidresses that adhered to the philosophy of more is more.

Photos: IMAXtree

Bottega Veneta Designer: Tomas Maier

  • "Bottega Veneta's looks for women next winter project strength and decision." [AP]
  • "Under Tomas Maier, Bottega Veneta has blossomed into luxury fashion's most adroit generator of understated high-design desirability. ... This morning Maier presented a collection that exemplified his softly spoken philosophy." [

    The Daily Telegraph]

  • "Because Maier loves women and so clearly respects them as intelligent, self-posessed, strong beings, there was an approachability and believability in what he offered." []
  • "External adornment of any kind save raffia (raffia?) was eschewed and the materials themselves were correspondingly anti-luxe and anti-bling." []
  • "A sophisticated collection where the fabric did the talking, Bottega Veneta oozed luxury, but simply, without excess." [i-D Online]
  • "So good were the designs that the brand’s bread and butter handbags almost faded into the background." [NOWFASHION]
  • "Bottega Veneta is a big luxury brand, and as such, Mr. Maier doesn’t have the experimental latitude of a Comme des Garcons, though some of his gestures suggest that he’d like to." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "A refined collection of wearable, salable, but undeniably interesting clothing." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "There was no nostalgia here, this was about precision. The narrative and fantasy of last season had been replaced by lines, pleats and folds to create shapes that were challenging and conceptual." [SHOWstudio]
  • "Wool. Is there a fabric less sexy? Maybe not, but that didn't stop Bottega Veneta's Tomas Maier from going for it this season. Not many designers have the imagination combined with the skill to turn the plain material into something so utterly un-plain." []
  • "This showing gave us a very stripped-down idea of Bottega Veneta, and a very architectural one at that." []
  • "No longer is the Bottega girl flirting her way to success. Instead she's planning on being a little more precise about it." [ UK]
  • "The designer made a strong point with fabric constructions." [WWD]

Scroll to Continue

Recommended Articles

Emilio Pucci Designer: Peter Dundas

  • "It was a naughty little show, but quite a relief from the Goth fashion prevalent on the current Milan runway." [AP]
  • "This collection got to the very essence of Pucci and the House’s 1960s heyday--carefree and ultra-glamorous." []
  • "The theory being, it seemed, why use one ingredient when 10 (or 12, or 15) can make the point better?" []
  • "A hit--a palpable hit! The leggy antelopelike models bounded down the catwalk, tossing their heads under long fringes, their tops lacy, their skirts silken squares with those irrepressible Emilio Pucci prints." [

    International Herald Tribune]

  • "The fast paced Pucci show felt like designer Peter Dundas’s models were in a hurry to get to a party." [NOWFASHION]
  • "Peter Dundas's Emilio Pucci girl is always sexy, but this season, the designer kicked it up a notch." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "There was both 'less is more' and 'more is more' at work on the Pucci runway. Less clothing, but more embellishments. So hemlines, whether on skirts or micro shorts, skimmed the thigh and dipped at the back, while lingerie-like dresses came decorated to the max with suede applique, collages and embroidery." [SHOWstudio]
  • "Emilio himself might've been impressed with the math skills required to create the fringed minidress with its green and lavender leopard-print pattern. More to the point, it'll be a kick to wear." []
  • "Thank goodness that someone--that would be you, Peter Dundas of Emilio Pucci--has realized that when it comes to this fall, ostentation and opulence are best served in short measures." []
  • "The key to Peter Dundas' success at Pucci has been bridging the gap between its past and its future--something which he more overtly illustrated with his autumn/winter 2013-14 collection this evening, going back into the archives to revive the Otto print and bring it back to life with his own injection of sex appeal and glamour." [ UK]
  • "Call it potently Pucci. For fall, Peter Dundas delivered a strong iteration of the brand icons, employing the famous signature prints with panache and sexiness." [WWD]

Jil Sander Designer: Jil Sander

  • "Jil Sander is back, and it shows." [AP]
  • "Sander certianly doesn't need to be angst racked about her creativity. Like her come-back show last season, this was another filled with delecatable, wearable yet forward-looking minimalist clothes." [

    The Daily Telegraph][

  • "This designer reminded us what is at the heart of her vision: discipline and mannerism. Chances are, whoever's wearing these clothes, they'll have a mind as sophisticated." [Dazed Digital]
  • "Every piece was a master class in pure execution." []
  • "The collection had the grace of refusal, no doubt, but it also lacked urgency; these clothes didn’t demand anything--attention or that jolt of recognition for an unidentified self--besides respect. Which isn’t always the most potent emotion." []
  • "The overall effect was of a good strong collection, but not one to change the feminist vision that the Jil Sander label identified so many years ago." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Calling a Jil Sander show a study in pure and composed minimalism sounds almost redundant at this point. She is the high priestess of this particular point of view." [NOWFASHION]
  • "Although there were many appealing things in her fall show, like the colors (saffron, sky blue, clay red), the thinking seemed rigid. It closed off possibilities, like a minimalist but up-to-date expression of glamour." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "With Jil Sander back at her namesake label and Raf Simons settled in at Dior, doesn't it feel like the forces of minimalism just can't be stopped? Sander's Fall 2013 collection, shown Saturday in Milan, certainly made a strong case for that, anyway." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "There was more freedom in the tone of this collection compared to last season's austere palette of navy, white and burgundy. She'd opted for 'high-carat femininity', which was realised through a range of gemstone colours." [SHOWstudio]
  • "The serenity of today's presentation was unimpeachable." []
  • "In the end, though, it was Sander’s meditations on all the ways that you will want to take cover come winter that were the best moments of her show." []
  • "Luxurious and well considered, all the Sander hallmarks were here and this time engineered into something especially innovative and beautiful." [ UK]
  • "The reentry jitters, whatever they may have been, are now officially gone. As with her men’s show in January, on Saturday Jil Sander proved herself in stellar form." [WWD]