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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 7 of New York Fashion Week

From the Upper West Side (Michael Kors) to the far southern reaches of Tribeca (Proenza Schouler) the most buzzed about shows took part in a little gender play with menswear-inspired tailoring.
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The lesson to be gleaned on the penultimate day of New York Fashion Week is that designers need not pick sides when it comes to the battle of the sexes. From the Upper West Side (Michael Kors) to the far southern reaches of Tribeca (Proenza Schouler) the most buzzed about shows took part in a little gender play with menswear-inspired tailoring.

Marchesa Designers: Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman

  • "Marchesa's collection of opulent gowns was inspired by the works of 19th century Spanish romantic painter Francisco Goya." [AFP]
  • "Even a bit of a menswear vibe was introduced through a shirting striped fabric--which then was used on a deconstructed gown with a mermaid hemline and floral threadwork. Still, it was an unexpected twist for a label known for goddess looks." [AP]
  • "The fearless twosome offered up full-length ball gowns, mermaid-hem dresses, and modern tea-length styles in lustrous reds, silvers, and black duchesse satin." [FabSugar]
  • "A black sheer gauze shirt over a corset and black trousers with a gold embroidered 'flap' at the waist (that’s what they called it; it looked sort of like a cummerbund slung low); and an enormous strapless fuchsia ball gown have a limited audience, though to be fair, that audience, aka the red carpet/benefit ball-going/wannabe-principessas of the world, does exist." []
  • "But more than just riff on a theme, this collection signaled how Chapman and Craig are continuing to evolve their business. What began as a label best known for frothy Fantasyland looks has become something a bit more, well, realistic. Really. And this is a good." []
  • "This evening it added new elements to the mix by way of trousers beneath ballgowns and jackets of elaborate folds. So it didn't feel as much red carpet, instead it was more theatrical." [ UK]
  • "The designers had no shortage of reality-based sentimentality from which to draw their creative gusto." [


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Michael Kors Designer: Michael Kors

  • "Michael Kors lit up New York Fashion Week with flamboyant colors and humor." [AFP]
  • "Kors went for 'chic survival mode' on his runway for men and women, inspired by October's Superstorm Sandy." [AP]
  • "It's quite a week for Kors, with his stock prices reaching their highest peaks since going public and a gorgeous collection presented at Lincoln Center." [

    Daily Front Row]

  • "This enormous collection--several season's worth packed into a twenty minute blur--suggested billionaire status could be just nano seconds away." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "Michael Kors unleashed a new fashion vision for autumn 2013 on New York on Wednesday morning. It was dark and punk-inspired, with studded dog collars and shredded fishnet--- WAIT. No. Of course it wasn't." []
  • "Who could resist Michael Kors's patented combination of ultra-luxe fabrics and perfect tailoring, with more than a dash of private jet traveler thrown into the mix?" [fashionologie]
  • "The Michael Kors show offered a prime opportunity for scrutiny. What did he know that everyone else didn’t? Apparently that what every woman wants is haute athletic wear." []
  • "At first I raised a big fat eyebrow at Michael Kors’s athletic romp--well, it was 10:30 a.m. and who can look at taxi-yellow serge at that hour? Or a mink coat in bright blue camouflage. But then I decided it was all a pretty great sendup to just about everything that beats and honks in New York." [The New York Times]
  • "He was most convincing when he played it low-key. Plenty of urban warriors at the show would kill for his charcoal gray wool melton overcoat and the pantsuit shown underneath it." []
  • "A rollicking take on urban survival rendered in high-octane hues of royal blue, neon orange and taxi-cab yellow." []
  • "The future is definitely bright here." [ UK]
  • "He binged on the sporty and the polished with blaring colors, cobalt blue and “taxicab” yellow shown against slick black in exaggerated proportions that varied between performance and ladylike." [WWD]

Proenza Schouler Designers: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

  • "Proenza Schouler's collection included black and white coats with rounded, masculine shoulders." [AFP]
  • "A marvel of technical achievement with a quiet, classical elegance. McCollough and Hernandez always have an eye towards what is new and next. It’s crazy that these two haven’t been snapped up to design for a major European fashion house yet." [All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times]

  • "Once again, the duo pulled off a critical wow and had the editors and buyers falling at their feet with praise." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "‘Softness’ in the conceptual rather than tactile sense guided Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s latest Proenza Schouler collection." []
  • "Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez created a parade of clothing that chic young women could wear from day to night." [FabSugar]
  • "Proenza Schouler redefined ladylike with a minimalist collection that may just convince the cool kids to wear suits and sheaths." [fashionologie]
  • "There was a point: there are no simple answers to anything. Even fashion. Even (especially) fashion success." []
  • "While their A/W 2013-14 collection might add the shiniest polish to NYC’s downtown vibe, the freezing cold, deserted building venue, the visceral soundtrack and the mussed up, low-key beauty served as a reminder that these kids are connected to the street in a way their contemporaries can only dream of." [Grazia Daily]
  • "Even at close range, the clothes in this clever Proenza show could deceive you--and then seduce you." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • " This time around their tweed bouclé jackets and skirts were actually made from woven strips of black and white leather--One word: wow." []
  • "It was certainly a powerfully sophisticated show that signaled a new maturity, and a cool refinement after the exciting visual noise of last season, whilst also illustrating the designers’ mantra that 'easy doesn’t need to be sloppy.'" []
  • "Softly go Proenza Schouler this season and it's a move that's gone down oh-so well--prompting applause and enthusiasm of it being the 'best thing' that's been seen all week at New York Fashion Week backstage post show and congratulations from Elizabeth Olsen and Liv Tyler." [ UK]