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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 8 of New York Fashion Week

Thanks, Marc, for moving your main line to the last spot on the grid, on the day that Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein's Francisco Costa show. You made it very easy for Report Card when selecting the final critics' picks for most buzzed about runway spectacles.
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Thanks, Marc, for moving your main line to the last spot on the grid, on the day that Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein's Francisco Costa show. You made it very easy for Report Card when selecting the final critics' picks for most buzzed about runway spectacles.

Calvin Klein Collection Designer: Francisco Costa

  • "Klein's show near Times Square exuded confidence and a touch of military precision, with big, manly coats, large-buckled belts, leather dresses and shining boots." [AFP]
  • "One of Costa’s most wearable collections to date. He tapped into the season’s military and menswear trends, but in a way that was wholly original and modern." [All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times]

  • "After eight days of New York Fashion Week previews, there was still something new to see on the Calvin Klein runway, including some of the best coats of an already good coat season." [AP]
  • "Francisco Costa was a bit mad for military this season, tempered with a classically Calvin touch of minimalism, of course." [Daily Front Row]
  • "It was as structured, clean and architectural as we’ve come to expect. Rest assured that Ms Chastain will remain extremely well dressed." []
  • "For Fall 2013, Francisco Costa injected Calvin Klein's usual allegiance to monochromatic minimalism with a pattern other designers have featured heavily this season: glen plaid. [fashionologie]
  • "Mr. Costa did many things with this collection. He created grid effects with creases. He pumped up volumes. And he recast some of those masculine styles for leaner evening styles, like a black blazer with wide satin pants. But ultimately, he hammered out a demanding silhouette." [The New York Times]
  • "As the dark, dark, fall collections enter their home stretch, and even with the big Marc Jacobs show still to come tonight, we may as well go ahead and declare a winner as Fashion Week’s MVT. (That is, Most Valuable Trend.) He is Mr. Glen Plaid." [On The Runway]
  • "Powerful, provocative." []
  • "Welcome to the new sexuality circa 2013. It’s covered up, structured, cold, and slick." []
  • "Even if the drilling sounds on the soundtrack suggested otherwise, the overall effect of the collection wasn’t raw, but ultrasophisticated." [WWD]

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Marc Jacobs Designer: Marc Jacobs

  • "It was too hot for winter in the world of Marc Jacobs, as his new collection was unveiled in the final act of New York Fashion Week." [AFP]
  • "Marc Jacobs does the 'show' part of a fashion show as well as he does the 'fashion.' He closed New York Fashion Week on Thursday night with an elaborate production centered around a giant harvest moon that gave off a light that made everyone in the Lexington Avenue Armory appear is if they were in a black-and-white movie." [AP]
  • "Amongst the fur, Joan Jett wigs, pyjama-style pieces and swathes of sequins emerged a topless, hot pant-clad model who seemed to have been horribly failed by the backstage dressers. Of course, this was no accident but a craftily planned statement by the man who knows exactly what it takes to grab the attention of watching press." [

    The Daily Telegraph]

  • "He elevated the typical show format to a museum-worthy plane. In so doing, he didn’t just delight his audience; he dazzled us. Literally." []
  • "While fur suits might not be on everyone's shopping list for Fall, the designer's camel double-breasted coat, metallic-shot shift dresses, chunky cable knits, and swirling second-skin gilded evening dresses are sure to be a major hit at retail." [fashionologie]
  • "He closed Fashion Week with a thoughtful presentation, and some rather beautiful clothes." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "Marc Jacobs closed New York fashion week Thursday night like the rest of us: ready to go to sleep." [Speakeasy/The Wall Street Journal]
  • "Only Marc could turn a bout of melancholy and such simple clothes into the show of the week." []
  • "'Somewhere over the rainbow—again!' said a silk pajama–clad Marc Jacobs backstage at his show. Fashion’s Wizard of Oz certainly took us on another remarkable journey into his febrile imagination, presenting a collection of outstanding, understated chic that was eerily magical." []
  • "To all intents and purposes, it was something of a fashion moment, good or bad, sad or happy, depending if you were there or not--but live-streamed so that anyone not in transit could still feel the Marc magic." [ UK]
  • "This was perhaps the most overtly glamorous collection Jacobs has ever done, rendered with a moody gentility that transported it far beyond the banal, his invocation of “familiarity” notwithstanding." [WWD]

Ralph Lauren Designer: Ralph Lauren

  • "Lauren unbottled a dose of Russian soul in his fur hats, black peaked caps and long velvet dresses." [AFP]
  • "This collection had Keira Knightly written all over it. I'm guessing Lauren was inspired, at least in part, by the story of 'Anna Karenina,' if not the recent film. But he brought new ideas to a historical look, and showed us some of the most extraordinary workmanship seen on any runway here this week." [All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times]

  • "Ralph Lauren didn’t just have a muse for the fall collection he debuted on the final day of New York Fashion Week. He had a heroine." [AP]
  • "At Ralph Lauren, the designer left a box of chocolates and a billet-doux on the seat of every editor in his audience. His Valentine's Day charm offensive continued on the catwalk." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "The entire show kept it in the family, so to speak, if you can take 'family' to mean decades of familiar, reassuringly luxurious Ralph Lauren codes. Lashings of military and maritime style came wrapped up in a half-Russian, half-flamenco bow." []
  • "Decadent outerwear, luxe velvet dresses, and grand ballgowns fit for a czarina." [fashionologie]
  • "The S.S. Ralph Lauren pulled into port this morning on the final day of New York Fashion Week, depositing enough peacoats, admiral coats, passementerie, sailor pants and fisherman sweaters on his runway to make you think it was Fleet Week, not Fashion Week." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "It was his most fully realized, successful collection in a while." []
  • "This was Lauren giving a contemporary master class in how you can simultaneously soften and dramatize black so that it doesn’t have to look stark and flat and sober, working it across many, many great (great) coats and myriad trousers." []
  • "Ralph Lauren was bitten by the Anna Karenina bug it seemed this afternoon for its autumn/winter 2013-14 collection – to be specific, the magic of Russia over this specific heroine’s extravagant wares but there was a distinct Russian flavour here married with something of Les Misérables." [ UK]
  • "Ralph Lauren went to the merchant marine, or a chic facsimile of pea jackets, sailor pants, leather and salty-dog knits. Dressed in the style himself for his bow, Mr. Lauren will invite headlines like 'The Old Man and the Sea.' Well, he’s the boss." [The New York Times]
  • "He found dramatic romance worthy of a Tolstoy heroine. But why stay in one place? Lauren worked in a healthy Parisian soupcon that was a cross between hello-chic-sailor and Jean Valjean." [WWD]