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The 4 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 4 of London Fashion Week

It may have been a sleepy President's Day here in the good ole U.S. of A., but if you're looking for a little visual wallop, Super Monday in the U.K. offered luxed-up sex at Burberry Prorsum, fifty shades of black at Erdem, a "this is your brain on Christopher Kane" performance for PPR, and the return to the catwalk of Tom Ford.
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It may have been a sleepy President's Day here in the good ole U.S. of A., but if you're looking for a little visual wallop, Super Monday in the U.K. offered luxed-up sex at Burberry Prorsum, fifty shades of black at Erdem, a "this is your brain on Christopher Kane" performance for PPR, and the return to the catwalk of Tom Ford.

Photos: IMAXtree

Burberry Prorsum Designer: Christopher Bailey

  • "Christopher Bailey laid down the marker with a show that the British designer later described as 'a little bit sexy, a little bit Establishment.'" [AFP]
  • "Burberry’s creative director, Bailey, has taken its classic trench coats on safari for a makeover." [AP]
  • "Burberry was unlike anything we could have imagined. Which is exactly as we imagined." [The Daily Beast]
  • "The materials that rained down upon Burberry's runway, from ponyhair and neoprenes to tassles and metal embellishments, stepped outside the proverbial Burberry box." [Daily Front Row]
  • "Christopher Bailey stormed it yet again with an epic show on London Fashion Week's so-called Super Monday that was nothing short of exquisite." [

    The Daily Mail]

  • "Christopher Bailey abandoned his usual mournful, romantic vibe for a harder, sexier one. Translucent rubber pencil skirts and trench coats with metal embellishments and dainty, pointed wedges tapped into the paradox that was Keeler: one part sex kitten, two parts Little Miss Prim." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "This was Christopher Bailey on top form--a gutsy collection of future classics, as polished and luxurious as you might expect from the Burberry power house. From Burberry's creative director, sealed with a kiss." []
  • "This was an extremely sleek and focussed show and one that took the references to fetish that have been seen elsewhere (Jonathan Saunders, Erdem and Vivienne Westwood of course looked at that) to rather more upscale heights." [Grazia Daily]
  • "Should there be anyone watching at home who still does not feel the love – not only are the heart-print handbags available to order directly from the livestreaming of this show, but online customisation enables them to be delivered monogrammed with the customer's initials." [The Guardian]
  • "Bailey's love of the new has led Burberry to pioneer digital technology, but this season the focus was on young singer-songwriter Tom Odell, who performed the soundtrack to the show on a grand piano." [The Independent]
  • "Mr. Bailey is to be admired for his slick and lively shows, season after season, keeping Burberry on the high road--right up to cyberspace." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Both elements—the classic and the sexy—were not handled with any flair or surprise by Mr. Bailey. It was a packaged deal." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "A whimsical collection." [Reuters]
  • "After more than a decade of taking inspiration from the company's noble heritage, his own cultural icons, and the small tribe of pretty young things who populate Burberry's ads, it's time for Bailey to get down and get ever so slightly dirty. " []
  • "The animal prints—jaguar, giraffe, leopard—also ran the gamut from brassy to classy and were especially chic printed on sheared fur as soft as velvet." []
  • "Valentine's Day might have been and gone but that doesn't mean the romance can't be rekindled or prolonged--not if Christopher Bailey has anything to do with it." [ UK]
  • "There’s gold in them thar hills or, in the case of Burberry, in the green expanse of Hyde Park--where the brand staged a show with plenty of shine." [WWD]

Christopher Kane Designer: Christopher Kane

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  • "Everything from skirts and coats in blue camouflage prints, barely-decent dresses made of large, lace-like flower and coil designs, and elegant shifts in blue and black velvet." [AFP]
  • "Kane’s latest display was so diverse and included so many creative themes that it seemed like several collections rolled into one." [AP]
  • "A show full of energy, awash in fur, velvet, luxe combat prints and delicious deep plums and purples." [

    The Daily Beast]

  • "With his new boss, PPR's Francois-Henri Pinault front and center, Kane debuted a militant collection showcasing his chameleon-like qualities." [Daily Front Row]
  • "Given his small team of 25, and higgledy-piggledly quarters, the size and ambition of this latest collection was astonishing." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "As the collection(s) built, in complexity and inventiveness, the atmosphere crackled with electricity, just as his fifth and final chapter marched out: a pair of black trousers worn with a t-shirt printed with a multi-coloured image of an MRI scan of a brain--that’s right, a brain--followed by ‘electric shock’ dresses, seemingly fabricated from fine black wires and copper circuit board coils." []
  • "It's the kind of craftsmanship that literally drops jaws coming down the runway." [FabSugar]
  • "If Christopher Kane is feeling a new kind of pressure now that he's under the PPR umbrella, his Fall 2013 collection certainly didn't show it. In fact, the broad-shouldered army he sent down the runway looked pretty darn confident--and tough enough to handle any extra expectations the designer's new luxury backing might hold." [fashionologie]
  • ""I just wanted to do a really beautiful show," he said. And that it most certainly was." [Grazia Daily]
  • "This is what grace under pressure looks like." [The Guardian]
  • "'The brain works in mysterious ways,' Christopher Kane said after his London Fashion Week show today." [The Independent]
  • "What a fashion brain the designer must have to have conceived all these original ideas, executed them in his tiny East London studio and offered them as a gift to his new owner, François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive of the luxury group PPR." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Dr. Frankenstein has become something of an unwitting mentor to Christopher Kane." []
  • "Christopher Kane never knows where his brain waves come from. Maybe that’s why after his extraordinarily idea-packed collection he was telling people that he’d been looking at an MRI brain scan while his synapses were firing away about camouflage prints, big coats and jackets, kilts, feathers, velvet, and lace." []
  • "In the past Kane has been noted for his signatureless signature--each time he does something so very different but each time so very brilliant and him--so it made sense to bring all of these chapters together and line them up. And they still made sense." [ UK]
  • "Brain-activity scans served as a quirky print on black dresses--and an apt symbol for Kane’s prolific idea factory." [WWD]

Erdem Designer: Erdem Moralioglu

  • "London designer Erdem Moralioglu has garnered a long list of fans with his delicate, ice cream-colored floral dresses, but this season he decided to put a darker twist on his romantic style." [AP]
  • "This was a collection full of beauty and a lightness of touch not easy to pull of within the confines of a strict Edwardian silhouette and a colour palette focusing mainly on black." [

    The Daily Telegraph]

  • "The show had more of a dramatic, femme-fatale feel to it that we’ve come to expect from Erdem. But it felt like an accomplished and sophisticated leap forward--and we loved it." []
  • "We couldn't have imagined a more beautiful kind of mood swing." [FabSugar]
  • "The darkly gorgeous Fall 2013 collection the designer presented in London Monday was a welcome reminder that the designer is still quite adept at mixing prettiness with edge." [fashionologie]
  • "When we heard the opening notes of the symphonic score to Hitchcock's The Birds we realised we weren't in for a typical Erdem show." [Grazia Daily]
  • "In the past, the designer has seemed a little too polite, not quite raw enough for the London scene. But this collection had more sexual heft." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "As the show rolled on, it became increasingly clear that black has at least as many shades as gray, and Erdem's vaunted facility with fabrics offered him a means to explore them all." []
  • "'I’ve always been quite afraid of the color black in my work,' said Erdem Moralioglu backstage before unveiling his ravishing collection, 'but I liked the idea of doing ‘uncomfortable,’ reacting against myself—and seeing how many shades of black I could get in my show!'" []
  • "It really was the use of black combined with wearable and wantable clothes that stepped this up a level for Erdem and had everyone's hearts all a flutter all over again." [ UK]
  • "For all the black, there was a fine use of color, too--pale pink, burgundy and a single bright acid green used sparingly and to potent effect." [WWD]

Tom Ford Designer: Tom Ford

  • "The former Gucci kingpin conjured up a vibrant spectacle, characterised by luxurious furs, flashes of fuchsia and purple along with slinky black eveningwear and pop-art inspired sequined designs." [AFP]
  • "The outfits were not revealing but very feminine and flattering." [AP]
  • "An explosively brilliant show crammed full of stye, panache, intelligence, and wit." [The Daily Beast]
  • "The outfits were demure without being dull, feminine and flattering without being twee (never a word you'd hear mentined in the same breath as Tom Ford, that's for sure)." [

    The Daily Mail]

  • "Wild, crazy, graphic-printed, and eye-catching: Tom Ford's Fall '13 collection--the first public runway debut of his eponymous line--is a clearly defined departure from minimalism and a serious rebel yell to all-out decadence." [FabSugar]
  • "Ford likes to have fun, and if any one adjective describes this show, that's it." [fashionologie]
  • "Owed more to the tropes of red-carpet glamour than to the current brutalist-chic, bench-in-an-office-block fashion-week aesthetic. What's more, the clothes paid not the barest lipservice to current catwalk memes: no kilt-pins, no beanies, no flat shoes, just sumptuous evening gowns, ornate tailoring and luxurious coats, maximalist in aesthetic but sharply executed." [The Guardian]
  • "In the collection's OTT essence, you could sense some defiance on Ford's part. After all, he's back in a race he wrote off as "rat" seven years ago. But damn it if he's not going to try and do it his way, one more time." []
  • "American designer Tom Ford unveiled his womenswear line to the world on Monday in a lavish London Fashion Week debut that will help seal the city's credentials as a major international fashion hub." [Reuters]
  • "Glam rock met pop art in an ornate British palace in St James, courtesy of Mr. Tom Ford, tonight. It was, effectively, his first fully public comeback runway show since he founded his own label—and it hit an exuberant none-too-serious note." []
  • "Subtlety was ruled out from the start. For his grand reentrance to the formal fashion schedule, Tom Ford booked Lancaster House, a historic former home of English aristocrats. It was by far the most impressive venue on the London circuit. The room was waiting to be wowed, which is what Ford knows how to do." [WWD]