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The 5 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 3 of London Fashion Week

Has hell frozen over? Sunday at two of London's most redoubtable print masters, Mary Katrantzou and Jonathan Saunders, bright digital prints were not at display. (Boobies were though, at the later.) Also of note were the grown-up womanly looks at Mulberry and Preen as well as at L'Wren Scott's UK debut, where look seven (a cobalt wool dress with gold collar) premiered on the runway after it premiered on Nicole Kidman at the Stoker premiere.
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Has hell frozen over? Sunday at two of London's most redoubtable print masters, Mary Katrantzou and Jonathan Saunders, bright digital prints were not at display. (Boobies were though, at the later.) Also of note were the grown-up womanly looks at Mulberry and Preen as well as at L'Wren Scott's UK debut, where look seven (a cobalt wool dress with gold collar) premiered on the runway after it premiered on Nicole Kidman at the Stoker premiere. Photos: IMAXtree

Jonathan Saunders Designer: Jonathan Saunders

  • "Leather and lace, for ladies." [The Cut/

    New York Magazine]

  • "As Saunders came out at the end, he paused to help one model hoik her brassy, scarlet, strapless masculine fantasy-dress up to a more socially acceptable eye line." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "We’ve become so desensitised to the hypersexual fashion image that it takes someone like Jonathan Saunders to get his freak on before you go ‘ooh, that’s a bit kinky, innit?’" [Dazed Digital]
  • "Just when you thought you knew where the LFW season was heading--punk, decadence, expensiveness, polish, polish, polish--up pops a show that jolts and provokes." []
  • "Jonathan Saunders, who started out a little more than 10 years ago as a purely print-based designer, also felt it was time to move things on. ... [H]e mixed fluffy mohair with sleazy vinyl, shinny chevron embossed wools with devoré velvet, flock leopard and laser cut 'lace.'" []
  • "It was all about sex for Jonathan Saunders this season. Or indeed 'tits and misery' as the designer himself put it after the show." [Grazia Daily]
  • "Someone must have turned up the heat in the Jonathan Saunders studio these past six months, because Sunday evening’s racy show in London revealed a new, steamier side to the designer." [i-D Online]
  • "The idea of insinuating sexuality as another side of tactile fabric was not such a bad idea." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Colour, texture, and sex appeal were the main ingredients of this knockout collection." [Refinery29]
  • "Not since Prada’s A/W10 show have breasts/boobs/bosoms taken centre stage. And just like Miuccia, Saunders brought sex back into the conversation." [SHOWstudio]
  • "'Did you like the show?' Jonathan Saunders asked Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood when he came backstage after Saunders' show tonight. 'A lot of tits,' Wood replied roguishly. He wasn't wrong." []
  • "Played with a comic-strip idea of femininity—bustier tops (sometimes with the bosom enhancers deliberately revealed) and pencil or poodle skirts, and overscale V-neck sweaters of the sort once worn by well-groomed teens at the soda fountain. But the attitude and simplicity of line remained resolutely modern." []
  • "It was naughty but nice." [ UK]
  • "Shifting the focus off his signature print work and onto the edgy side of the retro woman--something other designers, such as Prada, regularly ply--gave the collection a generic air." [WWD]

L'Wren Scott Designer: L'Wren Scott

  • "Vegas sparkle with a New York sensibility." [The Cut/

    New York Magazine]

  • "These are classic, tailored outfits with a touch of vamp." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "On the menu: shepherd’s pie. On the models: 23-carat gilded shoes and tattoos, as well as curve-hugging gold-accented sheaths and skirts and gowns." []
  • "Scott introduced the British fashion industry to the concept of the shlunch: a show at which lunch is served. (Brunch? So last year.)" [The Guardian]
  • "Known as an architect of clean lines, rather than fancy adornment, this first L’Wren show in London caught the upbeat spirit of her partner Mick Jagger’s city. (He was front row.)" [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Shortly before guests arrived for L’Wren Scott’s dinner on Sunday evening at Café Royal, Nicole Kidman appeared at a London screening of her new film 'Stoker' in the designer’s cobalt wool dress with a gold collar, the same look shown that afternoon on Ms. Scott’s runway. ... The rest of Ms. Scott’s collection displayed a sure-footed sense of what gets attention." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "Even though L'Wren Scott knew what her clothes looked like when she booked the grand hall of the Institute of Engineers for her show venue, the symbiosis of location and collection was one of those perfect synchronicities where the whole added up to much more than the sum of its parts." []
  • "The gilding of the L’Wren lily worked out stunningly in her more special pieces. There was a sensational pailletted shimmy dress in three shades of gold, scalloped edging in black, suspended on nude tulle." []
  • "It was disco, it was Seventies and it was rock 'n' roll all in one--her woman has the Midas touch and glitters in gold." [ UK]
  • "A designer seeking opulence, color and texture could find no better confluence of references than Gustav Klimt and his patron Adele Bloch-Bauer, whose gilded portrait he famously painted twice. L’Wren Scott spun the work of artist and client into gold, quite literally." [WWD]

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Mary Katrantzou Designer: Mary Katrantzou

  • "Impeccable structure turned Katrantzou's prints 3D, while out-of-character etched black leather proved a satisfying palette cleanser." [The Cut/

    New York Magazine]

  • "The somewhat darker palette of grays, blacks, and golds was a lovely departure from the neon hues in the designer's Spring collection, though the selection of striking, unconventional pieces remained the same." [FabSugar]
  • "A collection that was as powerful and moody as storm clouds gathering on a gray Winter day." [fashionologie]
  • "Marvellously melancholy." []
  • "Ms. Katrantzou’s show was one of those heart-stopping moments when fashion goes beyond the commercial or the attractive to embrace art." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Her show notes introduced the idea that this might be a more restrained collection. Katrantzou the…*shudder*…reductionist? Heavens forbid. ... It takes a lot of to restrain yourself from going further and adding more when you’re as talented, imaginative and technology-adept as Katrantzou clearly is." [SHOWstudio]
  • "Color or no, Katrantzou's fantastical, shadowy landscapes still seduced, with the added poignant allure of the melancholy that inevitably attaches itself to misty monochrome." []
  • "It seemed Mary Katrantzou deliberately threw herself at everything that doesn’t come naturally to her this season: dourness of color, reduction of print, absence of trompe l’oeil wit." []
  • "A new darker, sophisticated and slightly sinister direction." [ UK]
  • "Whether on the back of a PR girl’s clipboard or on the willowy frame of a Russian blogger, Mary Katrantzou’s kaleidoscopic, photo-based prints are unmistakable--and can be overwhelming. Which is why her fall collection ... should open her fashion universe to a broader clientele, including the still-enamored-with-black fashion pack." [WWD]

Mulberry Designer: Emma Hill

  • "Tweed checks, hounds-tooth twinsets, a cheeky 'Rule Britannia' catwalk soundtrack: Luxury brand Mulberry on Sunday delivered the most quintessentially British showcase yet at London Fashion Week." [AP]
  • "An autumnal collection of layered outerwear, for women with poor circulation." [The Cut/

    New York Magazine]

  • "Showed oversized navy and plaid knits over chopped--carrot-shaped trews, bags as big as hippos and thick-heeled, clumpy loafers." [The Daily Mail]
  • "Cara Delevingne and Max, the standard poodle, stormed the Mulberry catwalk in a succession of cropped trousers, oversized puff sleeves and gorgeous statement mohair jumpers that were so chunkily oversized they could easily do duty as coats." [The Daily Telegraph]
  • "This week at London Fashion Week she shifted up another gear. It was as if the designer had been looking to New York and Paris for inspiration such was the uber luxuriousness and grown-up attitude of the clothes." []
  • "A darker take on the bounty of the English countryside informed Emma Hill's Fall 2013 collection for Mulberry." [fashionologie]
  • "Mulberry upped the luxury ante with a mix of heavy plaids--often as super cosy sweaters as an alternative to the coat--rich tweeds, butter soft leathers, fur trims and increasingly investment priced bags in exotic skins." []
  • "Struck the perfect balance of elegant and cool for a new, more grown-up glossy Mulberry girl about town." [Grazia Daily]
  • "Elegant and vivid." [The Guardian]
  • "After a while, watching all those swollen sleeves, giant sweaters, magnified checks, and mega-size pleats come down the runway put you in mind of a shrunken Alice, searching for the pill that would make her big again. The emphasis on disproportion was conscious here; one suspected that the slightly surreal effect was not." []
  • "Tousled, woolly, and in a beautiful shade of pearly gray—and that was just the standard poodle that made not one but two appearances in the Mulberry show." []
  • "'Yes it's grown-up but it's still got that cheekiness. There's still lots of us,' summed up Hill." [ UK]
  • "Hill also ... layered what appeared to be mink onto collars and the fronts of jackets. 'No one believes me but it’s not real fur. It’s straightened sheepskin. Sheep with a blow-dry.'" [WWD]

Preen Designers: Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi

  • "Sophisticated and sleek with a little bit of punk: Preen’s latest collection for autumn and winter hints at an edgy biker girl, but any rebelliousness is tamed by a minimalist aesthetic and clean modern tailoring." [AP]
  • "Blair Waldorf just got a little rebellious." [The Cut/

    New York Magazine]

  • "Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton ... took Derek Jarman’s cult punk film Jubilee as inspiration and gave it the couture polish of a classic Richard Avedon photograph." []
  • "These clothes were modern, intelligent, strong and VERY desirable!" [Grazia Daily]
  • "Preen are masters of celebrating and subverting classic Britishness and today they did it again." [SHOWstudio]
  • "This was a purposefully schizophrenic show." []
  • "What Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi did today was what you might call 'evolved punk,' a collection that dealt with many of the punk symbols that have been subsumed into fashion over decades—black and red, zippers and studs, tartan and leopard spot, mohair and argyle. Their accomplishment is to splice it all into a continuation of the modern wardrobe they develop, season by season." []
  • "Preen--aka Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi--know how to do lovely clothes. And today's autumn/winter 2013-14 collection was no exception." [ UK]
  • "Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s fall collection was a study in deliberate contradictions." [WWD]