Timo Weiland rarely fails to make clothes we're dying to wear--not because they're just going for what will sell, but because they're so attuned to that cool NYC girl we all want to be--in a genuine way. Maybe because Weiland and his design partners Alan Eckstein and Donna Kang are all pretty cool themselves. "We talk about the New York girl a lot around our office," Eckstein explained after the show. "It's kind of like it's built on our experiences and it's built on what we think of the New York girl." They also frequently cite music as a source of inspiration and for the first time featured a live band--new NYC male/female duo Cable, fronted by Tracy Antonopoulos--at the show.
Still, they didn't let their pursuit of cool overpower the design. Fabric blocking on bomber jackets, luxurious fur accents and cocktail dresses that fanned out on one side all felt innovative and well-executed, independent of their "coolness." Overall, it may have been one of their most cohesive collections to date (and one of my personal favorites), which Kang told us had to do with their decision to show men's and women's separately. "I think because there was no pressure to use the prints together and there always was, so I think there was a freedom in knowing we didn't have to [show both collections] together that made it almost more cohesive."
Standout pieces included said bomber jackets, a shearling-lined peacoat, and a striped cross-front dress that was a little Carven-esque, but I didn't care. It looked so good layered over that black mesh tee and I need it.