At this season’s Y-3 show, avant-garde Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto continued the theme from last season’s tenth anniversary show--“walking backwards into the future.”
This meant an exploration of classic Y-3 motifs in futuristic form, like long, voluminous shorts with slyly placed triple stripes for men, slim-cut trousers with detachable PVC kilts for women, and transparent raincoats with fluorescent apricot touches for both sexes. There was a subtle playfulness to the presentation; at one point, a triad of red haired models walked down the fog-filled runway to Ruth Brown’s “I Don’t Know” in matching red-orange-punctuated black looks. The color scheme had a very not-to-be-taken-too-seriously, ’90s-cool feel (think lots of neons).
The collection, despite finding synthesis in exaggerated proportions and a clever avant-active attitude, was a little all over the place. There were sophisticated, ruffled capes, acid green board shorts fit for a ride down Bend, and crazy bright, techy looks apt to be adopted by the children of Ryan Trecartin. Still, the looks were smart--we wouldn't be surprised to see all of these groups, and maybe show-attendee ASAP Rocky, sporting these pieces come fall.