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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows from Day 6 of Paris Fashion Week

Sunday was a good day to be a British girl in Paris--or an Italian guy with eight sisters. Critics concurred that Celine, Chloé, and Givenchy offered a triumverate of strong visions of empowered femininity.
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Sunday was a good day to be a British girl in Paris--or an Italian guy with eight sisters. Critics concurred that Celine, Chloé, and Givenchy offered a triumverate of strong visions of empowered femininity.

Photos: IMAXtree

Celine Designer: Phoebe Philo

  • "After last season's slouchy-chic, Celine's Phoebe Philo upped the elegance to deliver a beautiful play of lines, but one that lost none of her soft touch." [AP]
  • "On the whole, Celine’s fall offerings volleyed between severely simplistic, straight cuts pieces, and warm and cozy designs, depending on the fabrics they were constructed of." [The Daily Beast]
  • "Philo has extremely refined taste. She's also a perfectionist. This collection reflected both traits, without looking uptight, so much so that the following items will now set the fashion agenda for the next few seasons: grey felt-wool, A-line tunic dresses with tie-draping ..., impeccably cut pale pink wool, flared coats with giant collars and half belts, clutches, with cut out wrist-holes and block heeled pale grey ankle boots." [

    The Daily Telegraph]

  • "It is rare to witness a faultless collection; usually there is something that doesn’t sit right, or didn’t quite work. Not here." []
  • "This was a beautiful show, inspired, if the picture books left on seats were anything to go by, by Flemish Old Master portraiture and lightly cloudy blue skies." [Grazia Daily]
  • "After taking an obtuse turn with her collection last season, which included flat walking sandals lined with brightly coloured teddy bear fur--soon to go on sale for £840 a pair--this collection had the makings of an instant hit." [The Guardian]
  • "A display of wholly gentle clothes, in soft woollen fabrics which seemed almost to cuddle the body." [The Independent]
  • "Seemed like the moment everyone has been waiting for during the winter 2013 season." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "In one way, this has been a season about a top and a bottom, and a great coat. Alexander Wang made that point at Balenciaga. But it took Phoebe Philo to turn basics into high fashion." [The New York Times]
  • "The mood book at the Celine show this season was filled with images of the derrières of marble statues, cumulus clouds and fifteenth and sixteenth century Flemish portraiture. A disparate mix if ever there was one. But damn if Phoebe Philo didn’t find a way to make those starting points come together in a stellar show made for modern women who want effortless attires that will work as hard as they do." [NOWFASHION]
  • "Work, work, work. That seems to be where Phoebe Philo's head was while designing her Fall 2013 collection for Celine: on how to make it easier for her customers with full-time jobs even fuller lives to get dressed in the morning." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "The designer has also melded a mood of stripped-down, put-together elegance, something of the old Céline woman combined with the new." []
  • "In what was certainly one of the most desirable collections of the season, Philo moved away from the now-iconic linear Celine aesthetic (which continues to influence countless less imaginative international runways) and into clothing with a gentle swing of movement or great, rounded volume." []
  • "It was insanely elegant and very clever." [ UK]
  • "A new way to wear a coat, courtesy of Celine." [ UK]
  • "Fabulous? And then some." [WWD]

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Chloé Designer: Clare Waight Keller

  • "Chloé makes ready-to-wear that's ready to wear and doesn't pretend otherwise. This honest attitude was on full display in Clare Waight Keller's collection of 41 highly wearable looks." [AP]
  • "A preppy, yet feminine collection featuring the house’s greatest hits." [The Daily Beast]
  • "Playfully tweaking the enforced properness of school kit's time-honoured tropes--bib-dresses, pleated skirts, PE kit trousers, V-neck jumpers and identifying stripes--the designer added hoik, hardware and the lushest of fabrics." [

    The Daily Telegraph]

  • "Brit girl in Paris Clare Waight Keller brought back some awkward but feisty teenage memories at Chloé." [Dazed Digital]
  • "School was out for, well, autumn as Clare Waight Keller showed her fourth collection for Chloé in the Jardins des Tuileries on Sunday afternoon, and college never looked so good." [i-D Online]
  • "Chloé is so fundamentally Parisienne that it is tricky territory for a British designer to inhabit while maintaining her identity, but Waight Keller is managing the balancing act. Her fourth collection blended Parisian polish (plenty of navy, touches of flirty sheer net) with London punch." [The Guardian]
  • "The designs of Clare Waight Keller were sharp, concise and well-designed, tailoring at its best." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Claire Waight Keller's show notes for Chloé's Fall 2013 collection described a myriad of inspirations: night buses, independent spirit, bare legs, bike sheds, flirting, cold nights, and tough girls. How all that translates to the actual pieces on the runway is anyone's guess, but that doesn't really matter. These were great clothes." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "Claire Wright Keller is an intelligent designer creating clothes for women, not girls, women with jobs and lives so that schoolgirl feel was measured, never going off the edge to cuteville." [SHOWstudio]
  • "All you need to do is picture the girl who is taking a very British phenomenon of a social melting pot on wheels. ... Bring her across la manche to Paris, as Waight Keller did, and she becomes quite a different creature; her look takes on an elevation akin to hitting the 'Up' button, ascending from the street to the 104th floor in seconds." []
  • "It was a little more grown-up and there was something a little back-to-school about it, commercial and instantly wearable pieces that are sure to be a hit." [ UK]
  • "Waight Keller kept a school-days spirit about the lineup, showing pinafore dresses with straps that mimicked backpacks and a plethora of great capes in an inky shade of blue, yet the sharp minimalist cuts tailored the look for a mature, stylish audience." [WWD]

Givenchy Designer: Riccardo Tisci

  • "Tisci unzipped, exposed and unfurled depths and transparencies in the Givenchy collection - which was as original, as it was thought-provoking." [AP]
  • "Tisci's collection was feminine. But that femininity came with a raw edge and an emboldened strength." [Dazed Digital]
  • "Tisci may have been looking back, but this felt like a massive departure. His woman had moved on, away from the controlled minimalist, to someone freer, more exuberant, romantic yet downright sexy." []
  • "Sometimes it’s beautiful to be brave. In a season where there have been few surprises, Riccardo Tisci’s collection was both of those things." [Grazia Daily]
  • "Riccardo Tisci’s show on Sunday evening for Givenchy was very affecting." [On The Runway/

    The New York Times]

  • "He brought some balance back to the fashion universe with a deeply personal collection that pushed fashion forward with its innovative approach to dressing." [NOWFASHION]
  • "It was a mashup that felt irreverent, clever, and even a little bit grunge." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "The realisation that Riccardo Tisci is one of nine children, eight of whom are girls, made this a ‘file under feminist’ collection, because Tisci knows women--that they are strong yes, but can still cry at Bambi like a nine year old would and they’re sensual and free-spirited and kick-ass and complicated--imagine that!" [SHOWstudio]
  • "Just beautiful. Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy show tonight was one of those fashion moments that true believers slog through four weeks of shows for. It gave you goose bumps." []
  • "Riccardo Tisci’s sublime Givenchy collection saw him return to the chic street sensibility that characterized his reinvention of the house, as he morphed inspirations taken from Gypsy culture with the classics that he has so suavely appropriated as his own--sweatshirts, biker jackets, and duffle coats among them." []
  • "His Givenchy show was the one that left everyone thinking - or rather knowing - that they had seen something very special, emotional." [ UK]
  • "It was atmospheric, emotional and full of incredible fashion." [WWD]