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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 7 of Paris Fashion Week

The buzz factor Monday? Collections that start with "S." So whether critics were loving the party-in-the-back looks at Sacai or the subversive haberdashery at Stella McCartney, or just trying to make sense of what it is that went down the runway at Saint Laurent, they were talking.
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The buzz factor Monday? Collections that start with "S." So whether critics were loving the party-in-the-back looks at Sacai or the subversive haberdashery at Stella McCartney, or just trying to make sense of what it is that went down the runway at Saint Laurent, they were talking.

Sacai Designer: Chitose Abe

  • "Immensely creative and wearable takes on the masculine-feminine trend, and some truly novel outerwear." [All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times]

  • "Karl Lagerfeld, the oracle, has already spoken: Sacai, he said on Sunday, is the most interesting current brand. And he had not even seen the stellar show Monday when the Japanese designer Chitose Abe excelled herself in giving polish and variety to her long-held idea of the masculine/feminine sides of women playing out on the front and back of an outfit." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "Conceptual meets wearable seamlessly. To sum it up, Abe creates contradictions that work, like an inside-out sports coat, a volumetric teddy composed from feminine looking orange lace spliced with sporty green checks." [NOWFASHION]
  • "Sacai's Chitose Abe has been at her hybridized mash-ups for years, but they just don't get boring. This was another outstanding outing for the Japanese designer, one that once more demonstrated how sensitive she is to the conceptual-commercial mix." []
  • "Decoding the chemistry that informs the choices a woman makes behind her closet door—fueled at once by practical and emotional impulses—isn’t an easy science. Few designers understand that better than Sacai’s Chitose Abe, and the collection she showed today was yet another stellar example." []
  • "By dealing in sturdy, sporty tradition--inviting windowpane plaids inspired by English hunting gear, rich navy and burgundy velvet and flight gear fabrics--she offset the inherently complicated nature of her splicing methods with a new sophistication and even practicality." [WWD]

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Saint Laurent Designer Hedi Slimane

  • "Monday's show at Paris's Grand Palais, which his supporters hope will allow him to see off his critics, predominantly featured short hemlines and hotpants worn with sheer black tights and flat boots." [AFP]
  • "A head-scratcher." [All The Rage/

    Los Angeles Times]

  • "Slimane was trying intentionally to provoke--and his message of rebellion was loud and clear." [AP]
  • "Quelle surprise! The motto vibrating from Hedi Slimane's runway at the Grand Palais today was 'go grunge or go home' as the designer tapped into the gritty, alterna-rock movement popularized by Cobain and co." [Daily Front Row]
  • "No homage. No reverence. It was Grunge." []
  • "Hedi Slimane has not forgotten how to shock the fashion world, after all." [The Guardian]
  • "It looked strong and smelt like teen spirit but how does all of the above tally with this great French status name?" [Grazia Daily]
  • "Suffice it to say, the collection shown Monday night by Hedi Slimane, his second women’s ready-to-wear since taking over the house of Yves Saint Laurent label (which he renamed Saint Laurent after establishing his design studio in Los Angeles, rather than Paris), will be as divisive as his first." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "Call it Seattle by way of Saint-Germain." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "The legacy today was grunge, not YSL; the longing was his own ardent attachment to a scene that was a continent and an ocean away from a kid in Paris at the beginning of the nineties." []
  • "It was certainly a bravura exercise in styling (although not as potent as the same theme seemed when Slimane explored it for his fall menswear, shown in January)—but one longed for a few more design twists on the Yves borrowings." []
  • "Hedi Slimane has a particular kind of girl in mind ... she's LA effortless and belongs at Coachella all year round." [ UK]
  • "What is Hedi Slimane’s mandate at Saint Laurent? Without a clear understanding of purpose, it’s difficult to review his fall collection in a lucid way." [WWD]

Stella McCartney Designer: Stella McCartney

  • "Stella McCartney did some spring cleaning for fall-winter, replacing her old wardrobe standbys with a more textural and sculpted collection than usual." [AP]
  • "McCartney ticked all the trend boxes for this season--oversized, mannish silhouettes, pinstripe suiting, a plaid print, and, well, some kind of ugly shoes. That’s not to say the look wasn’t very cool." [The Daily Beast]
  • "Stella McCartney's oeuvre received a jolt of the '90s today." [Daily Front Row]
  • "The tailoring was spot on: dark and pinstriped, recalling Stella’s tenure on Savile Row, but volumised, big, purposeful, confident." []
  • "In a season where clothing that embraces more than overpowers the wearer is prevalent across the board Ms McCartney was in her element." [Grazia Daily]
  • "The power play between masculine and feminine codes in fashion, territory the British designer has always prowled, has been a recurring theme of this fashion season. So at her Paris Opera house catwalk show, McCartney cut to the chase." [

    The Guardian]

  • "This show was a triumph for Ms. McCartney, taking her to that magical fashion place where she has a distinct personality, vision and message. It could be summed up as a dynamic woman of today with a sporty energy who expects her clothes to work as hard as she does." [International Herald Tribune]
  • "A haberdasher’s dream--except everything is a little off-kilter." [The New York Times]
  • "When it comes to trend spotting this season Stella McCartney hit the nail on the head." [NOWFASHION]
  • "Never mind that Bono, Paul McCartney, Kanye West, and Jessica Alba were sitting front row. And never mind that the setting was Paris's gorgeously gilded Opéra Garnier. The clothes on Stella McCartney's Fall 2013 runway were plenty spectacular on their own." [POPSUGAR Fashion]
  • "Her new collection for Fall wasn't exactly sexless, but it did have a cooler, less come-hither sensibility than usual, which seemed to play against her strengths." []
  • "Stella McCartney ... is thinking big, bigger, and biggest about the shape of things to come." []
  • "Of all the masculine-feminine mixes we've been seeing this season, this collection had a clever new take and it was all very Stella." [ UK]
  • "Gender play, girls-will-be-boys, call it what you will, the incorporation of mannish motifs into women’s clothes is an oft-used, classic conceit. In the collection she showed on Monday, Stella McCartney manipulated one of its obvious elements--pinstripes--into something new and utterly engaging." [WWD]