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The 3 Most Buzzed About Shows From Day 1 of Couture Week

Couture week got off to a super start--and we don't just mean Naomi Campbell's return to the Versace catwalk Sunday evening. On the first full day o

Couture week got off to a super start--and we don't just mean Naomi Campbell's return to the Versace catwalk Sunday evening. On the first full day of shows, critics praised Raf Simons for taking Christian Dior to the four corners of the earth and heralded Christian Lacroix's (temporary) triumphant return to the calendar for Elsa Schiaparelli.

Christian Dior Designer: Raf Simons

  • "Christian Dior artistic director Raf Simons on Monday unveiled a collection full of multicultural influences, in what the designer acknowledged was a step away from Dior's exclusively French sense of itself." [AFP]
  • "Christian Dior’s Raf Simons broke through the walls of Avenue Montaigne to send the fashion house on a journey across the four corners of the globe." [The Associated Press]
  • "Raf Simons continues to prove his loyalty to the DNA of Christian Dior with today's Couture showing, paying homage to the staples of the legendary fashion house with his own stamp on the classics." [Daily Front Row]
  • "The extraordinary thing about Raf Simons is how fast he has redirected Dior’s vision." (
  • "A year into his reign at Christian Dior, Raf Simons' mission to shake up the fashion world is still gathering speed." [

    The Guardian]

  • "The models were laughing, the flowers were blooming and although Kanye West’s aggressive rap music with its mean lyrics was still pulsating, all seemed right with Christian Dior’s haute couture world." (International Herald Tribune)
  • "The designer began this journey by asking a key question: What is haute couture? It’s a question that was long overdue." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "Brilliantly, this show was anything but polite. It was a total revelation." [SHOWstudio]
  • "Raf Simons was always going to bring a new sensibility to couture, but just how new was made dazzlingly clear with his show for Christian Dior today." []
  • "What the whole might have lacked in total coherence was more than made up for in the believability of every piece. Simons is outward-looking, keen to learn, and to tune into the lives of modern women; it’s easy to imagine his reality-couture being snapped up and worn in the four corners of the wealthy world." []
  • "This was Dior as seen through the filter of an African tribesman or a Geisha girl." [ UK]
  • "As a statement of freedom and creative control of the house--wonderful! As a collection--interesting and provocative, yet disjointed and even dizzying at times." [WWD]

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Elsa Schiaparelli Designer: Christian Lacroix

  • "The house of the influential fashion designer is being revived this year, and Monday saw famed couturier Christian Lacroix rise to the challenge of creating 18 dresses for a presentation entitled 'Homage to Elsa.'" [The Associated Press]
  • "Lacroix was a fitting choice to kick off the latest incarnation of the Schiaparelli maison." [The Daily Beast]
  • "The appointment of Lacroix to create this curtain-raiser for the Schiaparelli brand was inspired. There are natural synergies between Lacroix's aesthetic and that of Elsa herself, particularly in gloriously eccentric colour combinations (billiard green with Shocking pink, paprika red with electric blue) and flamboyant silhouettes untramelled by narrow metropolitan ideas of chic." [

    The Guardian]

  • "Alas, the items will not be reproduced." [On The Runway/The New York Times]
  • "The Lacroix-Schiap collaboration is intended as a one-off extravaganza (Marco Zanini, late of Rochas, will be taking over the ready-to-wear direction of the house), but these enchanting pieces remind one what the couture week lost when Lacroix closed his own house, and make one yearn for this to be an ongoing experiment." []
  • "Lacroix is a brilliant couturier who supplied the haute genre with some of its most memorable moments. It’s a pleasure to take in and wonder at his creations. This lineup bore all of his distinctive markings: high drama, lavish detail, impeccable execution and distinctive fantasy element intrinsic to his work. What it lacked was a point, at least one that could be articulated clearly." [WWD]

Giambattista Valli Designer: Giambattista Valli

  • "With bold and refreshing sense of femininity, Giambattista Valli produced what could well be one of his strongest haute couture shows to date for fall-winter." [The Associated Press]
  • "Valli sent out pieces of such extreme sweetness, femininity and youthfulness, it was a further reminder that only his clients might do them justice." []
  • "You may need to bone up on your fine china to better appreciate Giambattista Valli’s fall haute couture collection. He based some of his garland-embroidered dresses and sweet dresses on Sèvres, Meissen and Wedgwood plates, among others in the cupboard." (On The Runway/

    The New York Times)

  • "'Flowers and colors are what women want from me,' Giambattista Valli said before his couture show—his fifth, the program notes reminded us. 'That's what I give them, but every time I get inspired by something different.' The something different tonight was porcelain." []
  • "Giambattista Valli was thinking of 'porcelain goddesses' for his appropriately fragile and delicate haute couture show, its runway decorated with classical statuary draped in garlands of white hydrangea." []
  • "Brides-to-be will have their hearts set on a Giambattista Valli couture gown this season - so supremely feminine, pretty and floral was his collection today that even the hardest of hearts would be a little broken by his ability with blooms, bows, lace and all things frou." [ UK]
  • "Cherubs alighted on garden statuary, which had been draped in cream-colored garlands. Giambattista Valli’s dewy beauties roamed among them, wearing his sweetest couture confections yet." [WWD]