New York designer Brandon Sun came into his own for his fourth presentation with the help of something he rarely uses--color. “I’m not one for bright this and that, so this collection was definitely a departure for me,” he dished.
With onna-bugeisha (Japan’s samurai woman) as muse, Sun set his sights on Kyoto’s imperial villa, Katsura, for time and place, to examine the balance of the ferocious and fragile. Brights (mandarin, jade, and cherry blossom pink) were on full display, juxtaposed by jet-blacks and crisp sheers, to create unexpected contrasts throughout. His signature fur techniques, which he honed as fur director at Oscar de la Renta and Blackglama, found new life in geometric manipulations. Artisan tweeds offset by tautly woven leather cigarette pants created a slick silhouette following along the lines of his previous efforts.
Although this may have been Sun’s least ‘furry’ collection to date, it was still hefty with new techniques. Experimenting with tight cartridge pleating, a process by which he describes as “a painstaking love,” he kept the focus on the ancient onnabugeisha armor. Playing with transparency and deconstruction, he brought the serene mazes of Katsura to fruition in grassy green mink cutouts atop see-thru silk.
Combining the hard with the soft, Sun ultimately excels, yet it’s his first bout with color that won this race.