More Seal Team than yacht club, this season Patrik Ervell looked to the sea and sailing for his inspiration, producing a winning, paired-down collection of sleek maritime aesthetics with technical fabrics and sporty appeal.
“Continuing a theme for the past few seasons, I’ve explored the junction between technology and nature as the foundation for my collection,” the designer wrote of his “Offshore” collection. This junction happened in the zip-up dry suit worn under a silk dupioni shirt; in ultra-functional wide-leg shorts in rubberized cotton; in tailored blazers made from “racing blue woven mesh.”
It happened even before the clothes made their way onto the seafoam green runway.
Ervell’s departure from his more industrial-looking shows of the past few seasons is gorgeous, and well managed. I especially enjoyed his take on a logo--the year in roman numerals, emblazoned on crew sweatshirts, his unapologetically baggy “volume pants” (that reminded me as much as '90s raves as anything nautical) and his incredibly slick formal pants, made from a woven mesh.
There is nothing too normal here, but nothing too wild. Instead of reaching, Ervell gives us contemplation. Instead of employing a gimmick, he explores a real theme. In an industry obsessed with reflection, Ervell looks forward, deconstructing what clothes could be without losing their pure functionality, or the aesthetic possibilities of careful tailoring.
And as if it needs to be mentioned: we follow his gaze.