Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez can always be relied upon to move the fashion conversation forward. In their spring 2014 collection, you could see elements of resort (in the use of pleats) and some continuation of last season's more sculptural and demure themes in a jacket here and there; but for the most part, the ideas were new.
According to WWD, the designers were inspired by "West Coast mid-century furniture designers and Arte Povera, the late Sixties movement based on simplicity and nature," and those influences could be seen in tops and long coats that had a simple and graceful structure to them--and in the color palette, which consisted of earthy shades of terracotta, ecru, and black. In a sort of seasonal reversal, this spring collection has a heavier, more grounded feel, while fall was full of crisp white looks. Suede was a key fabric (though according to the show notes, this particular suede is tissue thin) and showed up in tops with metal grommet details and in dresses. An abstract tree branch print added dimension to jackets.
The coats were the easy standout from this collection. From slim jackets with sculptural peplums to lean, long coats that looked faintly and hastily brushed with paint, these will surely be the "it" items of next season.
It was only towards the end that Jack and Lazaro added some shine. There were gold and chrome silk knit dresses and these beautiful shimmery dresses with halter-ish tops and delicate pleated skirts. I could picture them on the red carpet instantly. As if to reinforce the red carpet appeal of these last looks, we heard front row-er Liv Tyler breathe, "Obsessed. I want everything," at the show's close.