Cool guys with great taste, pay attention: Pyer Moss is one to watch.
Kerby Jean-Raymond, the man behind the year-old menswear label, took to the dirt off-road circuits of motocross for spring 2014. Named "Motoguzzi" and marked with the number 94 as an ode to Jean-Raymond’s mother, who passed away in 1994, this collection was a true display of the emerging designer’s talent.
Jean-Raymond, who is a rider himself, fused fine tailoring with the marks of motocross gear; multicolored pants actually contain padding, “so they can ride a motorcycle with them and fall and be fine,” he explained during the presentation. Leather panels accented mesh tops and sweatshirts to evoke the look of padded motocross jerseys, while criss-cross color blocking emulated their bold lines.
Although the color palette was a more serious grey, navy, and black (with bits of yellow here and there), and the fabrics looked deceivingly heavy, Jean-Raymond actually used a lot of breathable materials--nylon, microfiber and mesh. Perforated motorcycle jackets were made from calfskin, a lighter leather. “You can wear it in the nighttime in summer,” he said. Smart details were incorporated throughout; a multitude of shirt pockets showed up on a navy dress shirts, and subtle white piping highlighted the pants.
If one thing is evident of this collection, it’s that Jean-Raymond, who honed his skills at Marchesa alongside Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, has a bright future ahead.