After last season’s muted, mostly workwear collection, Richard Nicoll changed his vibe entirely for Spring/Summer. With a late Saturday night time slot, and a gritty parking lot venue, Nicoll seemed to aim for a younger, cooler audience this time around.
The designer described his muse as the “elegant tomboy,” which already signaled a clear departure from Fall’s ladylike, full-skirted suits. Models sported simple makeup, low ponytails, and generally looked like the girl that everybody wants to be--effortlessly sleek and ever-so-cool.
Nicoll’s signature chic tailoring was kept youthful with tiny shorts and little suede flat ankle boots by Manolo Blahnik. Houndstooth was modernized, etched out in sequins on a chiffon top or printed over gauzy jackets, all in varying shades of white. He experimented with textures, too, adding a sheer sleeve to a wool blazer, and painting glittery pinstripes over his beloved shift dresses. The few looks that were bubblegum pink fitted oddly well with the rest of the collection--the Nicolls girl is simply hip enough to pull it off.
In all, it was a seriously covetable collection, one that would almost seem more at home in New York than London, where shows tend to be a little less wearable and a little bit crazier.