Considering how much is riding on TOME’s spring ’14 collection, the mood at the Friday evening presentation was surprisingly calm. As one of the ten finalists in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, the label is under close scrutiny by a committee of heavyweights like Jenna Lyons and Anna Wintour. But if designers Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin were feeling the pressure, they definitely didn't show it.
For spring, they introduced a softer color palette, which Martin said was for no other reason than they were having a “think pink” moment and ran with it. “We’ve never really worked with such a pale palette – shades of pinks and lilacs, but the shapes are very much an evolution of what we’ve done in the past,” Ramon explained. “It looks new, but it feels familiar to our customers.”
The label has certainly established its own signature elements. Such as: Fabric used in unexpected ways to create subtle contrasts. For example, plastic coating gave a long, pastel trench a modern, evening-appropriate twist. Structured python was contrasted with airy chiffon and tulle, while tweed was shredded and reconstructed for a more understated feel.
There was a lovely balance of silhouettes with boxy tops and oversized outerwear alongside figure-skimming lace and tailored silk blouses. Some of the simpler, more feminine pieces were the strongest. A pale pink dress was artfully draped and pleated to divine effect, and a delicate white spaghetti strap dress with loose ruffle details was nearly ethereal.