Yohji Yamamoto never fails to excite. At Y-3 yesterday, with Justin Bieber (!) front and center, the Japanese experimentalist transformed the 31st Street post office into a flashing fit of drums and fashion.
Before the models entered the fog-filled room, a parade of musicians walked in and took their places at various drum sets around the cavernous space. They were the beating heart of Yamamoto’s avant-sportswear performance, pounding on their instruments as models revolved around them in acid-bright, rainbow-singed bomber jackets; flowing, technicolor sleeveless hoodies; and dreamy, lavender tank dresses that were punctuated by Adidas’ signature white triple stripes.
A collaboration with famed graphic designer Peter Saville (the man behind Joy Division and New Order’s covers) yielded the psychedelic, hippie-meets-digital prints. The athletic, avant-garde designs – including a hoop-skirted, all black stretchy ball gown and tailored jackets paired with loose-fit cargo shorts– were bold and definitively Yamamoto. Lots of sporty, all-American classics (sweatshirts, cargo pants, jumpsuits) received the acid-washed, high fashion update. The result was a hyper-colorful, hi-octane, and, put more simply, very cool collection.
Before the show, the designer told Style.com that he was sick of “groupie fashion,” i.e. the now dominant fast fashion that is more about profit than any particular statement. We can be sure that Yamamoto is not a part of the mass production model. He puts on a show with a purpose--and even closed his by sitting down to try his hand at the drums--and keepps our attention every season with his continually provocative, ever-conceptual precision.