Christopher Kane is not one to treat pre-fall as a mere interlude between the larger spring and fall collections. The Scottish designer, who received an infusion of cash from Kering (formerly PPR) almost exactly a year ago and was named Britain's Women’s Wear Designer of the Year in 2013, produced a darkly enchanting, 27-piece pre-fall collection inspired by origins: both the story of Adam, Eve and the serpent, and DNA.
The first half of the collection, the half that draws from the Garden of Eden, is the strongest: The gleaming skin of a boa constrictor is the primary motif, cut into large, bandaid-shaped panels that encase the wearer in the form of a jacket, dress, strapless top or corset belt. (Kane says he was "reformulating the idea of the body-con bandage dress.") The boa constrictor takes on even more sinuous shapes as an oversized coat, rendered in charcoaly blues, and as a tight-fitting blazer with zippered details and frilled sleeves.
The middle of the collection is brighter: There's an oversized jacket with gleaming green fur -- not particularly flattering but interesting nonetheless -- paired with straight-cut black trousers, hot pink python gloves and pointed shoes. And several looks combined the bandaid-shaped panels in hot pink snakeskin, offset by full silk skirts in an even pinker hue or, in some looks, oversized zippers that follow a serpentine line.
The collection takes a brief intermission of strong black leather and crepe pieces -- commercial pieces seemingly free of the references that inspired the rest of the collection -- before moving into the part inspired by DNA and molecular structures which, though very recognizable and photographable, lacked the sophistication of the earlier pieces. One exception was a sheer black and green layered blouse, paired with wide-leg black trousers with white dots skimming the sides: an attractive evolution of the track pants we've seen in so many collections of late.
Click through to see the full collection below.