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Helmut Lang Piles Texture on Texture With Geometric, Laser Cut Furs

Forget blankets when you have sweaters like these.

Helmut Lang was an exercise in texture this week. Without getting into a debate on the ethics of fur, the coolest pieces were easily the white and red coats that had geometric ridges cut into them. The white, short-sleeved version was winningly delivered with an angora skirt falling below the knee. The result was endlessly touchable: Just the type of thing you want to swaddle yourself in come fall.

"It feels amazing," designer Nicole Colovos says backstage. "It's so soft and buttery."

We bet. It's a departure from last season, when all of the fabrics were very flat, Colovos and her partner/co-designer Michael Colovos said. Even the prints were textured in relief, notably a bright red shirt-pant combo printed with... sand dunes? Flames? It was very Hunger Games/"Girl on Fire," in a good way.

Elsewhere, there were fluffy, oversized sweaters with big, slouchy turtlenecks; even fluffier fur coats; and some great all-white looks with paneled knitting. Cocoon-like leather jackets and a few slimmer, tailored coats rounded out the mix. Overall? Very wearable, very sellable.

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