Helmut Lang was an exercise in texture this week. Without getting into a debate on the ethics of fur, the coolest pieces were easily the white and red coats that had geometric ridges cut into them. The white, short-sleeved version was winningly delivered with an angora skirt falling below the knee. The result was endlessly touchable: Just the type of thing you want to swaddle yourself in come fall.
"It feels amazing," designer Nicole Colovos says backstage. "It's so soft and buttery."
We bet. It's a departure from last season, when all of the fabrics were very flat, Colovos and her partner/co-designer Michael Colovos said. Even the prints were textured in relief, notably a bright red shirt-pant combo printed with... sand dunes? Flames? It was very Hunger Games/"Girl on Fire," in a good way.
Elsewhere, there were fluffy, oversized sweaters with big, slouchy turtlenecks; even fluffier fur coats; and some great all-white looks with paneled knitting. Cocoon-like leather jackets and a few slimmer, tailored coats rounded out the mix. Overall? Very wearable, very sellable.