On a day with few exciting shows, lots of editors take it easy on Saturday. But none of them would miss J.W. Anderson, who has become one of London’s hottest tickets (no doubt made even hotter by LVMH's recent investment). Now in his second season showing at Yeomanry House, an army officer training center, the young designer is firmly established and well into his groove.
An army-related venue was a fitting setting for a designer known for his strict clinical aesthetic. Fabrics were thick and stiff, structured as always and with a decidedly wartime feel -- from heavy corduroy to boiled wool. Asymmetry featured prominently per usual, with necklines curving and dipping in nearly every look.
Between the somber palette, the floor-length hemlines and the boxy shapes, this could've made for a depressing show -- that is, if it were any other designer. But no look was without a hidden twist to keep things exciting. Heavy dresses turned to reveal a slit all the way up the back (and we mean all the way -- choose your underwear wisely or not at all). A kilt was taken to the extreme, with what looked like 30 yards of fabric tightly folded flat.
At first glance, a standout piece looked like a suit -- a blazer over a polo neck, but it was banded around the middle like a strapless dress and fell to the floor. If that sounds confusing, it was. Because, like a fashion Macbeth, things are never what they seem when it comes to J. W. Anderson.