There were undoubtedly a lot more eyes on Isabel Marant's collection this season. This was the designer's first time showing since her collaboration with H&M hit stores, which was so popular it sold out within hours, while also skyrocketing her brand beyond cult-y fashion girl status and into mass-market culture.
That said, while Marant's French cool-girl aesthetic was still front-and-center, she seemed to have put a heavier premium on design, tweaking her signature shapes. She also played around with grunge and military. While this definitely made things more interesting, for obsessive Marant-o-philes such as myself, it didn't necessarily leave you with that breathless, urgent feeling of "I want that." (Though that tune will most likely change once the clothes hit stores -- we probably just need a little adjustment period).
The most intriguing pieces were the more sculptural numbers, like two little dresses (one black, one army green) that had a puckered, ruffle-y effect. Also, the shoulders in some places deserve a shout-out -- so awesomely, ridiculously huge that they almost looked like little wings, wearability be damned. The designer's take on the '90s was cool, too, in the form of plaid button-downs, sweater leggings and fuzzy Kurt Cobain cardigans. Another shift: the slight military vibe, which Marant nailed by staying away from the literal -- though there were sparkly camouflage T-shirts.
For those who find comfort in the familiar, Marant did turn out her signature mannish coats, itty-bitty shiny dresses, perfect leather pants, statement furry outerwear (including ready-to-layer vests) and slouchy knits -- mostly done in the olives, grays, blacks and creams we've come to expect. My favorite piece was a sparkly, embellished gray blazer -- stunning.
All in all, it was a solid outing, and it's sure to sell like hotcakes, as always.