Roland Mouret started the morning off with a collection that was not about a "look or an outfit, but rather about advancing my skills, the thing I have distilled over decades into something close to a definition of myself," he said in the show notes. Mouret's booming business has compelled him to open his first US store on Madison Ave. this summer, and he's certainly feeling confident right now. While he showed a mix of signature techniques -- from origami folds to modernized patchwork -- there was one big idea: black leather pointy collars attached to each look.
Aurelie Bidermann, too, is opening up shop in Manhattan this year. (On Lafayette and Prince, to be exact.) Friday morning at her studio on Rue Saint-Honoré, the jewelry designer walked us through her latest collection. "Usually I have a lot of women on my mood board, but this season it was more about concepts than people," she said. Bidermann was particularly intrigued by the art of Rory McEwen, whose botanical paintings inspired her multiple leaf bracelets, necklaces and earrings. A range of gold-dotted enamel pieces that reflected the polka dot paintings of Alexander Liberman caught the eye, especially the mini-hoop earrings.
Our last runway show of the day was Maison Martin Margiela, which Kanye graced with his front-row presence. I really liked the mix of banker-stripe cottons and checked wools -- the iconic "Harris Tweed" tags attached to the back of several pieces were particularly clever -- although the collection was more commercial than anything I've seen out of the house. (Couture seems to be where they're choosing to experiment.) Is that good or bad? One could argue either way, but all I know is that I wanted to buy the clothes. So I'm going with good.
My self-selected nightcap was a viewing of the Alexander Lewis digital fashion show. Lewis, who is Brazilian but based in London, has only done "pre" collections in the past, so this season was a big deal for him. To make his entry into the "real" seasons special, he collaborated with French artist Marie Angeletti to develop unique prints. Lewis is smart to have launched with pre-collections -- they are, after all, the lines that sit on the sales floor the longest. This first fall effort was a respectable entry into main collections. You can watch Lewis' fall 2014 video in full below.