We would have forgiven Joseph Altuzarra if he'd put on a few airs during the showing of his resort 2015 collection Tuesday — the day after he was awarded the CFDA Award for Womenswear by his peers — but the 30-year-old designer was as humble and matter-of-fact as ever, joining his models on a makeshift stage in his studio to talk through the themes and details of his collection.
Altuzarra looked to a familiar resort theme — nautical — for the 2015 season, citing Rainer Werner Fassbinder's film "Querelle" as the point of inspiration. Everything was crisp and smartly tailored in a classic palette of black, navy, white and red, with the occasional linen slub and tortoiseshell print. There were navy peacoats with detachable funnel-neck collars and red-lined pockets; sharp-shouldered blazers with nipped waists; dresses printed with chains that looked like separates; plenty of neat dresses and his signature slit pencil skirts, some with a softer silhouette than we've seen previously. ("It wouldn't be an Altuzarra collection without a slit," he teased.)
Altuzarra is as savvy a businessman as a designer, and so he noted that some pieces in the collection — his full-sleeved, Romanian blouses, for example — were included because they have been consistently "big categories" for the label.
For the first time, Altuzarra showed his first in-house shoe collection — a natural outcome of Kering's recent investment in the brand. Many of the styles nicely matched the clothes — that is, they were generally pointy and tall, and made of dark leather — but there was were also colorful and beaded "statement" sandals, both heeled and flat, that we'll no doubt be seeing in many a street style photo in the months to come.
Click on the slideshow below to see the collection in full.