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Kenzo's Take on Nautical Is Anything But Traditional for Resort 2015

The trippy, rotating set wasn't very traditional either.

Kenzo's Humberto Leon and Carol Lim know how to do a good set. For the Paris-based brand's resort 2015 collection Tuesday evening, staged in the lobby of 4 World Trade Center, the pair followed up last season's David Lynch-designed show setting with a rotating, tiered platform, around which the models walked before standing still for 10 minutes, facing the audience. A double-sided backdrop, placed center, featured mirrors on one side and, on the other, a 3D illustration of buildings that appeared to expand and contract as the platform moved.

Against the backdrop were, of course, the clothes, and they played on Kenzo's key signatures: Bright colors, graphic prints and lots of logos. There were nautical references, but they didn't have the same vintage vibe as pieces shown by Altuzarra or Ralph Lauren this season. Instead, these clothes felt rebellious. A traditional, slimly tailored navy sailor pant, for example, was cut low and swam around the ankles (see right). The navy peacoat it was paired with had a missing piece in front, seemingly cut by the wearer in a roguish attempt to make it her own. Chunky gold earrings, worn on many of the looks, enhanced this vibe.

You can see the full resort collection by enlarging the slideshow below.

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