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Pheobe Philo Lets Go for Céline Spring 2015

For the record: Phoebe Philo is still wearing Stan Smiths. Of course, that’s not the only realization we culled from Céline’s spring 2015 runway. “I was thinking how edited the world has become, and how edited my process is,” Philo told Vogue’s Sarah Mower. “I was thinking, too, about our obsession with certainty, our need to know the outcome of everything—but maybe it’s okay not to! So I really just allowed this collection to be.”

Letting go a little gave Philo the opportunity to move forward. While this wasn’t a collection that will be forever burnt in our minds in the way of last spring’s paintbox extravaganza, there were elements that will gently nudge the course of fashion in a different direction, such as a cutaway collar, or a cuffed wide-leg trouser. (Which is, by the way, bound to be the pants silhouette we’re all wearing by February.)

Knitted dresses that were decorated with a furry hand-crochet at the hem were both wild and pretty, while dresses made of mix-matched calico florals added a welcome touch of wonkiness. Céline is such an important collection to the fashion industry because, like Prada, these are clothes that many women in the audience actually want to buy for themselves. The cake is that they also happen to come alive on the pages of magazines. While it might take quite a bit of creative and intellectual energy, all Philo needs to do to succeed is be herself.

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