David Koma's pulling double duty this season. He showed his spring 2015 namesake line in London on Sunday and will do his first runway show for Mugler (his first collection was for resort 2015) in Paris next week.
At the London show, we caught up with Virginie Courtin-Clarins, whose father's company, Clarins Group, owns most of Thierry Mugler. She sat front row at David Koma in a show of support for Mugler's new creative director, whose hiring she was pretty involved with.
"I started one year ago to take over Mugler fashion and I started by hiring David," she explained. "He told me the first time I met him that he started to do fashion thanks to Thierry Mugler. He’s really passionate about the brand and was the one with the best vision for the new Mugler woman." Who is that woman? "You think of her as a strong woman, independent, etc. We want to keep that, but make her more modern, human, more ready-to-wear than haute couture."
Koma, too, talked about creating the new, modern Mugler woman. And his designs for his namesake line are nothing if not modern. For spring 2015, he took inspiration from Mondrian, which manifested in lots of bold lines, mostly on dresses and crop top/skirt combos in modern bodycon and fit-and-flare silhouettes. There were sheer panels, cut-outs and pops of color, all of which were done with smart restraint. Though not usually one for unnecessary embellishment, he may have have drank the Kool-Aid that all of the other designers in London had, and showed a section of looks with colorful, sparkling stones. "I’ve never used stones before and I thought it would be interesting to put them in strict, graphic lines," he explained backstage after the show.
He called his increasingly demanding lifestyle -- he splits his time now between London and Paris -- "inspiring." Meanwhile, most of us would probably describe spending three to four days out of the week in Paris and the rest in London as "exhausting."
"I think, I’m still young, I can do it, but ask me in a couple of years."
Click through the gallery to see his full namesake collection.