The Fashionista team is in Milan, bringing you the best of the Italian city's collections. Read on for our first-hand reports on the latest from the runways.
Angelos Bratis Thanks Giorgio Armani
Every season for three running, Giorgio Armani picks an up-and-coming designer and lends him or her his theater and resources to put on a runway show. This move is invaluable to the brands it benefits because Milan sorely lacks the support for emerging designers you see in New York and London.
Greek designer Angelos Bratis, who landed in Milan after winning the Alta Roma Who Is On Next prize, showed a light, breezy collection of loose-fitting dresses that seemed to float off the body. Then, he showed his gratitude to Mr. Armani by holding up this sign as he took his bow. It was a nice, refreshingly human start to Milan Fashion Week.
My highlight of Day 1 was No.21. While there are a lot of beautiful clothes in Milan, Alessandro Dell'Acqua's for No.21 stand out for their cool practicality, save for a (seemingly intentional) nip slip by Hanne Gaby Odiele. There was a '90s grunge aspect to the collection, seen in sheer plaids and army green military jackets, but there was also structure and polish in fitted, beautifully sequined high-waisted pencil skirts and blouses and coats belted at the waist A short-sleeved shirt dress with beading on one lapel and a black, partially sheer apron dress were among my favorite pieces. It was a collection that felt at once dreamy and wearable — a pretty unbeatable combination.
Alberta Ferretti's Festival Hippies
Alberta Ferretti was in the same head space as the Marchesa girls this season, it seems. The collection was all about flower children and surprising uses of denim. The flowers worked better than the denim, in my opinion.
Fausto Puglisi Blows Up
Fausto Puglisi’s show was one of those "what a difference a year makes" moments. When I was in Milan for spring 2014, I honestly hadn't heard of him and the turnout for his show was pretty dismal. Since then, Puglisi’s clothes have been everywhere, or, I should say, on everyone — from Kendall Jenner to Katy Perry to Madonna to Lupita Nyong’o to Lena Dunham to Cate Blanchett…the list goes on.
Needless to say, Puglisi’s spring 2015 show was a must-see — for everyone. The venue was packed to the brim, and even Anna Wintour, who is famously selective about which shows she attends, was there.
The vibe of the show was… party. Puglisi's signature vibrant, yet (usually) tasteful clothes with short hemlines were there, with almost costumey ancient Roman influences. And he ventured beyond dresses into jackets, tops and knits. A thick-strapped printed babydoll dress — a silhouette he seems to do every season — was still my favorite.
We've seen a lot of '70s rock 'n roll influences on the runways this month, and Gucci's Frida Giannini kicked off Milan Fashion Week with those references in mind — plus Kate Moss and Charlotte Casiraghi, the first face of the label's new beauty line, in the front row.
Though, Giannini's was not the glam, sexy interpretation you might expect from Gucci, at least not entirely.