What do women want? Christophe Lemaire, that's what. The designer, who is leaving his post as Hermès's womenswear designer at the end of the season to focus on his namesake line, sent out a collection of masterfully subtle coats, separates and dresses. Ladies, get your credit cards ready. -- Lauren Sherman
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten counts many an editor as a paying customer, and his show almost always leaves fans in the audience smiling. Spring 2015, which depicted the Belgian designer's idea of a flower child, earned him several ear-to-ear grins. The look was colorful and loose, with expertly mixed, colorful prints, including one inspired by a cannabis plant, rendered in floating silhouettes. His signature push-and-pull between mens and womenswear was there, too: pajamas and board shorts in striped washed satin were shown alongside chiffon skirts and bandeau tops. Van Noten often begins a collection by designing the shoes first, and his "boob tube" platforms and horsehair-detailed sandals didn't disappoint.
As the sound of birds chirping filled the room, models walked on a handwoven and tufted carpet, which took Buenos Aires-based artist Alexandra Kehayoglou four weeks to create. After the finale, they each plopped down on the runway, lounging about so that everyone had an opportunity to see the clothes close up, and take some prime Instagram snaps, too. They look so happy and relaxed, you couldn't help but want to join them. -- Lauren Sherman
Rah Rah Rochas! Three seasons into his tenure as the house's creative director, Alessandro Dell'Acqua did a good job communicating his vision for the brand, pinning letterman jacket-esque Rs on everything from sheer blouses to athletic socks, which were worn with sparkly pom-pom pumps. Some of the prettiest looks, certainly inspired by the house's 1950s beginnings, were shirt dresses or shirt-skirt combinations in tulle or what looked like painted floral organza. Dell'Acqua played with a trapeze silhouette as well: the standout in this shape was a fluffy white-cotton strapless number with inserts of windowpane eyelet at the hem. Heavy use of black kept everything from looking too sweet, and a metallic gold dress coat that curved slightly outward at the waist served as a worthy topper for Dell'Acqua's confections. -- Lauren Sherman
There’s a reason why the formerly anonymous designers behind the French label Vetements selected a name that translates to "clothes" in English. "It was the product that we wanted to push and not the background of one of the people on the team," head designer Demna Gvasalia, who has worked at both Louis Vuitton on womenswear and at Maison Martin Margiela, told Fashionista.
One couldn’t help but notice the latter's influences on their youth culture-inspired spring/summer 2015 collection. The minimal, avant-garde aesthetic was certainly there, on sweatpants with hemlines that flooded the floor, on sleeves that went far below the hands and on oversized pantsuits. "It’s wardrobe stereotypes that we try to twist in our way," said Gvasalia. Then there were the quirky -- yet witty -- surprises: floral ‘90s grunge dresses that used different prints on the front from the back, giving the effect of two different looks; asymmetrical skirts that strategically showed off a thigh-high boot; and Snoop Dogg’s face, taken from an old ‘90s t-shirt and printed on the side of yet another boot. For being only in its second season, Vetements is off to a good start. -- Ann Binlot