Super sporty! Sixties! Ski! That pretty much sums up Guillaume Henry's spring 2015 collection for Carven (which may be his last for the house if he does head to Nina Ricci as rumored). Henry used racing stripes to great effect on sharp-collared coats, and even did a pair of bike shorts with a knitted stripe up each side. There were plenty of his playful Japanese postcard-inspired prints, too, including a retro blue-and-red floral that is sure to get as much action in magazine editorials as it will on the sales floor.
Under Henry's watch, Carven has become a go-to for French-preppy dresses, skirts and toppers, and this season delivered plenty of highly shoppable options in each of those categories. What seems poised for even more attention are the glossy, graphic top-handle handbags, which models carried around as if they were bike helmets. Unlike the mini styles showgoers have been toting this week, they were big enough to carry everything and structured enough not to feel sloppy. -- Lauren Sherman
What might have felt like a moonlit rave at a beach in Goa was actually Manish Arora’s spring 2015 runway. The designer went on a journey through pastel rose gardens and outer space. Pink rosebuds were printed on translucent light blue fabrics that were fashioned into flirty A-line skirts, ruffled maxi dresses and comfy sweatshirts. A chiffon eye stared out from some of the pieces, evoking the the psychedelic trip that is a constant theme in his work. The intricate iridescent embellishments dazzled, especially on a sheer mint green dress, as well as bejeweled backpacks and fanny packs. Arora was probably channeling an Indian princess on psychedelic drugs, but that’s the sort of thing we’ve come to expect from him. -- Ann Binlot
For spring 2015, Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing kept referring back to a photo he took with muse Rihanna. From there, he looked at many pop stars who flaunt their sexuality to, as he put it, “turn the tables on censorship.” He pared down his usual blinged-out, indulgent silhouettes for sleeker lines, putting a literal revealing twist on blazers.There was caging throughout — on transparent tops, zipped-up long-sleeved dresses and a suggestive number worn by Kendall Jenner. Grid prints followed on trousers, while thick black bans on bandeau tops and mini-dresses served as an ode to censor bars. A few pieces — a glittery grid top, a below-the-knee pencil skirt — seemed to recall the grid paintings of Mondrian.
While Rousteing’s collection wasn’t exactly revolutionary, he did make it all his own, and in case you’re wondering, there were a few pieces that did show some nipple. Click through to see the complete collection, and to read our thoughts on the stellar cast of models. -- Ann Binlot
Whether or not we just saw one of Peter Copping's last Nina Ricci shows remains to be seen, given the recent reports claiming that he is headed to Oscar de la Renta. Yet there's no doubt Copping's heart is still with the Paris fashion house. The designer's energetic spring collection was full of the beautiful, feminine pieces he does so well, but with a craftier feel. (He was inspired by the idea of "DIY couture" of the house's founder.) A bustier top, for instance, was a crocheted knit instead of the more expected silk, and hems were cut into streamers. Copping mixed more subdued khaki with brights like tangerine and watermelon, and worked in prints inspired by Louise Bourgeois's textiles, also from the 1940s from the same era. It was pretty, of course. But it was also interesting. -- Lauren Sherman
Rick Owens's models might've been clomping down the catwalk in wooden platforms, but their looks were airy and light. Click here to see the entire collection and to read our review.
Zadig & Voltaire
For the most part, each look in Zadig & Voltaire’s spring 2015 collection was a monochrome ensemble in one of five colors: black, white, yellow, turquoise or bright pink. Creative Director Cecilia Bönström looked to the ‘90s -- the same time the label was born -- reinterpreting it through asymmetrical silhouettes and grungy, tattered sweaters and pants. Ruffles added a delicate feminine touch to an otherwise androgynous collection filled with tuxedo pants, slouchy trousers and crisp pantsuits. The most adventurous pieces were the dresses and tops where net-knit mesh crisscrossed with glossy strips. But overall, it was minimal and easy. Lots of timeless basics were there -- most notably the leather minidress, skirt and shift top. -- Ann Binlot
Christian Wijnants's spring 2015 inspiration took him to a place where "the forest meets the sea," so he showed a lot of silhouettes that you might wear in either of those settings: anoraks, bucket hats, tanks top and shorts. But the difference was in the texture. He used a paper-thin material on the outerwear, rendering it all very light and layer-able, while several pieces were coated for a slick, liquid-y look. Another cool piece was a pair of shorts that were made out of shredded silk that was knitted together. But Wijnants's greatest talent may be in his color choices: the blues, greens and pale pinks he worked with this season really helped to convey his idea. -- Lauren Sherman
Happy 125th anniversary, Lanvin! Click through to see the full collection and to read our review.