The Fashionista team is in Paris, bringing you the best of the collections. Read on for our first-hand reports on the latest from the runways, including Loewe, Isabel Marant and Dior.
Click through for our report on Jonathan Anderson's stellar womenswear debut for the Spanish fashion house.
Hussein Chalayan propped a set of Moorish screens at the front of the runway he used to showcase his spring 2015 collection in Paris on Friday morning, a nod to the North African and Andalucian influences on the collection. The shadows that poured through underlined Chalayan’s interest in chiaroscuro, the Italian word for the interplay between light and shadow. The same pattern appeared on a few dresses -- a dainty off-the shoulder frock, a halter maxi and a strapless ladylike peplum number -- and on light blue, breezy slacks. Plunging necklines and dropped lapels on jackets showed a sophisticated sexiness. One wispy blue-grey halter dress showed his ability to take a traditional shape -- the peplum -- and make it his own.
The designer closed his show with a trio of dresses, each embroidered with an image of a woman dressed in a burqa -- Chalayan referred to them as “Peeping Ladies” -- but if there was a political statement embedded there, it was lost on me. --Ann Binlot
Click through for our review of Raf Simons's stunning spring collection.
To look both sexy and cool at once is a sartorial trick few can achieve, but it gets a bit easier with the help of Isabel Marant. For spring, the designer managed to make a tiered pleated skirt look hot, rendered in black leather and styled with a perfect-fitting t-shirt. A few ruffly numbers were tied up with obi belts, and a pair of cuffed high-waisted shorts were worn with a slouchy loose-knit top. Strappy flat sandals finished off every outfit and are sure to be a bestseller next summer, but they were most effective worn with the super-tight one-shoulder minis that closed the show. Body-con-meets-flats? What could be cooler, or sexier, than that? --Lauren Sherman
Sculptures made of cloth: That's what the first group of looks shown at Issey Miyake's spring 2015 show looked like. That’s because they displayed the label’s newest innovation, the 3D Steam Stretch, which uses steam to turn creases in a single piece of fabric into a 3D form. Dresses came alive, and the textures added depth to the pieces. Creative Director Yoshiyuki Miyamae explored the "creative power of wind" -- the way it moves cloud forms, as seen on a number of white pieces, and the way it changes the surface of sand dunes, shown on loose beige jackets and cocoon dresses. Its effect on water, too, surfaced on navy shorts and a boat neck dress. But Miyamae also demonstrated that he could do more than just the 3D Steam Stretch. A more playful set of grid prints accented colorful airy skirt-pants and skorts and matching white-collared tops. The most exceptional pieces in the collection were the brightly hued handbags and clutches with contrasting piping, serious contenders for next season’s statement bag contest. -- Ann Binlot
Maison Martin Margiela
"Make Do and Mend," was the title of a pamphlet handed out the British government during World War II. It was targeted at women, offering them ideas on how to transform their old clothes into something more current since buying new was out of the question in such a resource-limited time. The team behind Maison Martin Margiela took this idea to heart for spring 2015. "The collection suggests that one revisits their unique, personal garde-robe and reinvents it," read the show notes.
To be sure, there was nostalgia in these clothes. A pinstriped robe coat and matching shorts could have been made out of men's suiting, while vintage daisy prints added a retro-future feel to silk dresses, jackets and hand-painted goggles. Haberdashery elements -- oversized grommets as well as lots of ribbons, tied up or hung loose -- reinforced the do-it-yourself ethos. There was something sentimental but not too precious about it all. -- Lauren Sherman