It’s New York Fashion Week, which means the Fashionista team is running around town like crazy to bring you the best of what’s new from the city’s brightest designers. Read on for our first-hand reports on the latest from the runways, and click here for even more reviews.
New York-based womenswear designer Emily Saunder looked to a more debauched and rebellious influence for the spring 2015 collection for her namesake line Saunder. “The inspiration is this 1969 song, ‘Inna Gadda Davida’ by Iron Butterfly,” she said. “It’s thought to be the beginning of heavy metal music. From there, I was thinking about creating this idea of a rock ‘n roll Garden of Eden, with a ‘60s influence, with a touch of Valley of the Dolls.”
The Jacqueline Susann novel-turned-Sharon Tate-starring movie was evident in the bright, printed jacquard flared silhouettes, structured color-blocked mod shirt dress, soft pastels harking back to some sort of dopamine-induced haze (it's in the book!) and—quite literally—on a barbiturate pill-emblazoned sweatshirt. Sheer iridescent tops, louche gowns, and bright, in-your-face moto-jackets brought the rocker part of mix. Turns out Saunder is a true music fan at heart. “I’m a really big ‘70s rock ‘n’ roll fan,” she said. “Queen is my favorite band, so there’s always Queen playing at some point in my creative process. Seventies rock ‘n roll is my jam, but I listen to some Iron Butterfly as well just to get into the mood of things.”—Fawnia Soo Hoo
This show has everything: Cast members from "Orange Is the New Black" in the front row, bright yellow yoga pants for dudes, wheel-shaped cutouts, a skirt with a normal front and a totally transparent lace back. With its jumble of prints, gold details and exposed skin, Custo Barcelona's spring 2015 collection was typically nightclub-ready. But even if a shimmering printed jumpsuit with a neckline down to THERE isn't your thing — based on the "oohs" coming from the front row, it certainly is for some people — you have to respect the brand’s dedication to clothing that's straight-up fun and sexy. And who knows? You might just find yourself thinking, "Hey, I could rock those shiny dolphin shorts." -- Eliza Brooke
The "Jungle Sunrise" theme of Tim Coppens's spring 2015 show became immediately apparent when the first model strode out onto the runway, damp bangs plastered to his forehead. (The big beauty story this week has been, more or less, "sweat.") Models wore streamlined sweatshirts with extra zippers and cool windbreakers, with bulky backpacks slung over their shoulders. This jungle, of course, was an urban one, and a black and navy color palette exploded into bright red, blue and green and black patterns — the kind of abstracted, screen saver-y print you might find on a kid’s Speedo swimsuit. (Or you might say it's a shoutout to Coppens's time in athletic wear at Adidas.) Utilitarian and consistently cool, this was a great showing from the current CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. -- Eliza Brooke
Even though Danielle Sherman has only been the creative lead at Edun for three seasons, there are certain things we’ve already come to expect: relaxed silhouettes, eye-catching graphic and textural elements, expert layering and a subdued color palette. Basically, laid-back staples that are easy to wear, and that we want to wear.
For spring 2015, Sherman evolved the texture blocking she used for fall into color blocking, with bold strips of red, black and white pinstripes and a circular pattern that resembled cheetah print breaking up the otherwise solid pieces. A number of the looks were kimono-inspired, many with karate-like belts tied at the waists, making for a cool change of silhouette. Despite these details, the looks I was most drawn to were the most monochromatic, relaxed ones, with two sweaters or skirts of different lengths layered on top of one another to add dimension — something I strive for when I get dressed in the mornings, but can only dream about perfecting as well as Sherman has. —Alyssa Vingan
Anthony Vaccarello x Versus Versace
Black minidresses, gold accents, optical prints – this is the Versus Versace diehard fans are ready for. And Versus Versace is ready for its fans, putting the collection on sale on its site immediately after the runway show.
Anthony Vaccarello, he of the pelvic-baring slits and bold-shouldered blazers, took the soul of Versus (a cool rock chick) and mated it with the sexiness of Versace proper. The result will definitely get the girls looking for party dresses to shop, but what about the rockers? That was resolved in the form of St. Vincent, who performed at the brand's after party in a miniskirt and cropped pink bomber jacket, sending the message, "If this is alt enough for Annie Clark, it's alt enough for you." (Sidenote: Clark shredded it on stage. She is our personal guitar hero.)
The party also saw the show's models dancing in their runway looks, Nicki Minaj shielded by bodyguards with stylist Rushka Bergman, Allegra Versace hugging it out with Naomi Campbell and a quick photo op of Rihanna and Donatella Versace. — Steff Yotka
In my experience there's no such thing as a bad Mark McNairy collection. The designer has established himself as a menswear mainstay and continues to reinvent the pieces and motifs that made him famous, from the large grade camo print to his daisy embroidery.
His spring 2015 show, opened by Travis Scott, was full of stripe sets, anoraks, prints and tongue-in-cheek nods to the West, from beer printed cowboy hats to a cow-print vest that is totally worthy of stealing from the man in your life's closet.
Women were decked out in McNairy's Woolrich Woolen Mills collection (he serves as the brand’s creative director) that included palm print pants and casual logo tees. Also of note were his hats made in collaboration with New Era and some new kicks made with Adidas. After all these years, McNairy is still the coolest of the cool. -- Steff Yotka
Nanette Lepore's spring collection took a relaxed and youthful turn for spring 2015 — perhaps the influence of Lepore's teenaged daughter, who closed the show, had something to do with it. The inspiration was California ease-meets-South of France elegance, which translated to nautical stripes mixed with yellow and blue paisleys. Swimsuits had a nice sporty feel -- so nice to see swimwear done in a practical way! — and shapes were loose and flowy.
Another youthful touch: Lepore sent model Mick Szal down the runway with a GoPro in her hair. It was Szal's idea, who has modeled for the designer several seasons now. "When they said they were going to put it in her hair, I was like, 'You're not going to feel normal, you're going to walk funny!'" Lepore joked. But Szal pulled it off. Now we just have to wait for the video. -- Tyler McCall
Read our full Opening Ceremony review here.
Next spring is going to be a hot one for Vivienne Tam. The designer sent models down the runway with hair plastered to their faces, which had the sheen of sweat after a long, humid day. They had clothes to match: hothouse florals and bright primaries embroidered onto white and black mesh shirts and dresses. Birkenstocks got a fashion twist thanks to the addition of ankle straps. The lineup ended with looks in refreshing, sea-like blues — salvation at last. -- Tyler McCall
Diane von Furstenberg
Review to come.
The Elder Statesman
Review to come.
Review to come.
It's nice when a designer is able to make a well-trodden print feel new; in this case, that would be Yigal Azrouël and palm trees. A pale blue dress printed with oxblood trees felt particularly cool, while the designer snuck a white embroidered palm onto the ribcage of a loose blush shirtdress. The military is a recurring touchpoint for the designer, who served two years in the armed forces, and it came through again in a stiff army green bomber and matching trousers. In fact, bombers were a big story overall. The telltale cuffs and collar popped up in different incarnations — attached to an unstructured, pale pink robe in one look and a silk blouse in the next. The mash-ups were not only clever, but also seamless. -- Eliza Brooke
Porsche Design’s spring 2015 collection was everything that its name stands for: sleek sophistication. For the men’s and women’s lines, creative director Thomas Steinbrueck drew inspiration from contrasting landscapes — the seaside and the desert, with a color palette to match.
The show began with serious and structured navy looks — stiff, shiny trenches paired with stiff obi belts, and navy suits. From there, the hues traveled into subdued beige and clean, crisp whites and silver grays. A few of the silhouettes became more relaxed; there was a billowy maxi dress perfect for both night and day, and the obi appeared throughout, even in the form of a bandeau top. Another standout was a sheer, white long-sleeved mini dress. Steinbrueck’s minimal vision and design expertise shined through in this collection, a win for a luxury label.-- Ann Binlot
With Whoopi Goldberg and Steve McQueen in attendance, Reese showed one of her coolest collections in recent memory -- to put it in terms of Obama, some of Reese's most famous clients, it was more Malia than Michelle. The show opened with a surprise dance troupe, the members of which emerged from the audience, eliciting some gasps and delighted applause when they finished. But the clothes were not out-shone here -- plenty of print mixing (floral and leopard) plus fun, bright colors made the collection feel youthful. The shower slide continues in popularity, here rendered in flashy sequins. But, should the First Lady want to pick something, there were pieces in here for her as well -- an elegant floral dress would be perfectly suited for an occasion next summer. -- Tyler McCall
Gone are the black leather jackets and the neon pink dresses. For spring, DKNY is feeling happy and the result is a collection of bright hues, bold patterns and loose, casual shapes. Continuing with the long and lean trend we've been seeing around NYFW, DKNY showed V-neck tunics with midi skirts in stripes and prints, full midi skirts with bomber jacket tops and embellished tunics worn over tea length dresses. The layering and color palette were bold and sporty, the perfect notes to hit while announcing a collaboration with Pony for spring. (Make room in your sneaker closet now because you're going to need these.) The brand also announced a collab with BottlePop on handbags made by women and young people in Kenya and Brazil. — Steff Yotka
The show opened with a group of models, male and female, dressed in the same pattern. It was a strong start to the show, and after those models theatrically filtered out one by one, the regular runway portion began. The South African designer focused mainly on a gorgeous salmon pink, using it on separates as well as evening wear, accenting it with a few burnt orange looks and cinnamon red details. The devil, as they say, was in the details, and here Tlale thrived: Lace and rhinestones were smattered across skirts and dresses in just the right amount. Overall, it was one of the strongest, most cohesive collections I've seen so far this week.-- Tyler McCall
Hood by Air
As cool as they looked, a number of the models at the Hood by Air spring ’15 show on Sunday seemed to be having a rough time. One hobbled down the runway with the help of a pair of custom, stylized black crutches. A couple were shackled into HBA-branded lucite socks, and others wore oversized dog collars, which was fitting, considering that a Great Dane walked the runway in the middle of the show. All the while, a gospel choir eerily chanted in the background, as if begging for their collective redemption.
Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air shows can easily be mistaken for performance art, which is not a bad thing: it’s rare to leave a fashion show scratching your head these days. Was there a political statement hidden in there somewhere? Oliver will present a second part of the collection in Paris, which will hopefully shed a bit more light on his inspiration, but one thing is abundantly clear: The streetwise leather jackets embossed with the HBA logo, androgynous crisp white shirts and skinny denim with a variety of embellishments (including HBA patches at the knee) are going to be extremely popular among Oliver’s cult following come spring. —Alyssa Vingan
The "Project Runway" alum presented a collection perfect for Hollywood's young starlet set -- a lightly beaded crop top with a floral mini immediately called Taylor Swift to mind. Floaty florals were grounded by black, cream, and seafoam green. Thin layers of material were occasionally lightly embellished with a smattering of monochromatic beading. Marshall was most successful with her day looks and her red carpet-ready evening wear, while she tripped up a bit in the middle: The cocktail dresses could have used an edit. -- Tyler McCall
For spring 2015, Alejandro Ingelmo stuck with his signature shapes -- sneakers for men, sky-high heels for ladies -- and gave them a futuristic spin. There were plenty of metallics, in the expected silver and gold, as well as a red color, which accented a leopard print. Sexy mesh heels with flashy holographic details are sure to please his die-hard fans. -- Tyler McCall
Read our full review of the Public School show right here.
Read our full Victoria Beckham review right here.