It’s New York Fashion Week, which means the Fashionista team is running around town like crazy to bring you the best of what’s new from the city’s brightest designers. Read on for our first-hand report on the latest from the runways, and click here for even more reviews.
"It's the most last-minute collection we've ever done," Whitney Pozgay, the designer behind up-and-coming label Whit, admitted laughing at her spring 2015 presentation. It's little wonder: In addition to producing her spring collection, she also released this summer a second capsule collection of petite clothes for Anthropologie, and was a finalist for the U.S. Woolmark Prize, which required the creation of six sketches and a fully constructed look.
Once again, Whit partnered with several artists for the season, showcasing their work alongside her designs at an underground gallery in Chelsea. The collection exuded youthful energy, radiating from primary colors and mood-lifting prints, and no one pattern dominated. "It's a little reminiscent of my teen years, finding creativity in your bedroom in suburban Arizona, reading magazines, discovering all that," Pozgay mused. The designer got her start at Kate Spade, and the label's influence is clear. While the clothes shown in the spring collection were appealingly wearable, we can't help but wish that Pozgay would be a little more adventurous with proportions and silhouettes, which stayed safely in J.Crew territory. -- Lauren Indvik
With Bianca Jagger as a reference point, Tia Cibani created a spring collection peppered with '70s notes and a color palette that ranged from auburn and eggplant to a shimmering, near-nude gold. Volume came in all forms, like the blouson top that opened to show or the dramatically draped satin dresses that evoked the spirit of Studio 54. Most fabrics had a light sheen to them — you know, the kind of items that might catch the light of a disco ball after midnight and then glimmer during that walk home at dawn.
Perhaps the most interesting development from a designer whose customer definitely identifies as "artsy" was the inclusion of denim-inspired elements at the collection's end. Structured suiting pieces were dip-dyed in indigo and a denim linen jumpsuit brought the collection to a normcore-meets-elevated place. "My customer is looking for either polished denim or interesting denim in that indigo, dip-dyed way," Cibani explained. And while, yes, the denim pieces will definitely appeal to longtime Cibani fans, they will also introduce the designer to a new group of consumers: denim obsessees looking for the next big thing. -- Steff Yotka
Womenswear designer Daniel Silverstain made his New York Fashion Week debut with a packed presentation in his Garment District atelier on Wednesday. How was he feeling about the milestone occasion? “Weird. Very, very strange.” he said. “I’m really hot.” And yes, the roomful of gracefully perspiring editors would probably have agreed with that last observation.
An urban design enthusiast, Silverstain looked to famous influential Brazilian architects Oscar Niemeyer and Roberto Burle Marx for his spring 2015 collection. “Every season, I try to look at different cultures when futurism hit a place or changed the aesthetic of creative design or creative thinking,” he explained. “This time I concentrated on Brazil in the ‘60s. So it’s about a carnival.” He interpreted the celebratory theme through a mix of innovative fabric techniques and unexpected texture mixes, like 3-d prints with beading, digital prints on micro-fiber, and luxurious silk crepe de chine or jacquard next to futuristic metallic leather. The NY-based Israeli designer also incorporated neoprene to elevate the sportswear-trend aesthetic. A couple of neoprene looks -- a sloped shoulder graphic sweatshirt and a paneled short sleeve shift dress -- literally channel Brazil’s famous bacchanal: The purple-hued abstract print panels on the pieces are actually digitized images of an archival 1960s photo taken by an American tourist in Brazil during carnival. -- Fawnia Soo Hoo
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All photos: Getty