This season, Alexander Wang traded his usually cavernous venue — Pier 94 on the West Side Highway — for another pier much further downtown, and for much closer quarters. Walking into the space felt like entering a dim, underground tunnel or nightclub packed wall to wall with people, only this is one where you’d brush past a number of the designer’s famous pals, like Nicki Minaj, Kim Kardashian, Kanye West and Zoë Kravitz, who were all seated front row along the narrow runway. While not the friendliest of atmospheres for claustrophobics, the scene immediately felt appropriate once the show began.
Set to a soundtrack of dark techno (specifically, French DJ Gesaffelstein and The Prodigy’s new song, aptly titled “The Day Is My Enemy”), moody-looking models stomped out with Marilyn Manson-esque matted wet hair wearing dramatic looks that could be described as heavy metal meets goth. The collection was nearly devoid of color (save for a couple of red grunge-y plaid buffalo plaid pieces) but there was plenty of texture, studs, cut-outs and chain detailing to keep things visually interesting.
The show began with suiting pieces and little black dresses, complete with high-necked studded collars and punky ball chains peeking out from pockets or lining hems. Wang got plenty of mileage out of metal studs in this collection: they made a quilted pattern on outerwear, mimicked the knit of a cable knit sweater and created a stripe effect on a velvet tunic — all without looking cheap or forced.
Every look was paired with gothic platform boots — some studded, some lace-up and some with very heavy silver buckles — that looked like more luxe versions of pairs you'd find at a shop on St. Marks. The finale looks were velvet dresses with swingy chain fringe, followed by completely see-through chainmail dresses (with very strategically placed patches of velvet). The latter were paired with metallic jackets and coats boasting giant black fur collars that were nothing short of badass; we can see the street style set going gaga over them come fall.
Because it would be remiss of me not to mention, both North West and Wang's young niece, Aila, were both sitting front row, already wearing custom pieces from the fall runway collection. And unlike at her dad's Adidas presentation earlier this week, Nori didn't shed one tear.