As Delpozo Creative Director Joseph Font was finishing up preparations backstage just moments before his fall 2015 show, I asked him if there were any pieces in the collection that were particularly difficult for him to construct. Font's work at the label is known for being voluminous yet structural, painstakingly detailed to the point where it is often described as "demi-couture." He just kind of laughed at me, and replied in his native Spanish, "Oof, montes." I immediately got the point.
For fall, Font was inspired by the works of two artists: An Australian painter named Rhys Lee, whose work is both colorful and a bit sinister, and Russian painter Andrey Remnev, known for his rich hues, romance and references to 18th century art. This came through mostly in the (often clashing) color palette — highlighter yellow and neon green were paired with brown, pale pink and grey — and the rich fabrics, which included velvet in nearly every shade of the rainbow, extremely chunky knits, structural felt and lots of airy silk. Two long coats, one baby blue and one grey with bright leather patchwork, as well as a turtleneck sweater knit to look like brain coral, will likely be popular among the (very wealthy) street style crowd.
In keeping with Delpozo's emphasis on refined structure, the construction and silhouettes were what really wowed. This season, Font incorporated some new techniques like balloon sleeves, and high, curved shoulders added height without feeling heavy. Font also played with 3D embroidery, which required stitching sequins on top of one another to elevate them. While the process sounds totally monotonous, the results were striking.
Many of the silhouettes skewed young, specifically the short, voluminous skirts that Font noted were among the most complicated pieces to create. A series of ice-blue looks in the middle also had an innocent, fairytale-like quality to them, especially a floor-length gathered silk dress with 3D flowers embroidered on the bodice. One bright red silk dress with floral appliques at the end of the show really brought the drama, with a cape-like train that seemed to float behind the model as she gracefully walked the runway.
Unlike most other Fashion Week shows that seem to be over in a flash, the girls walked slowly and deliberately — set to a classical piano — allowing the audience to really take in all of the clothing's details. So, not only was Delpozo's collection a feast for the eyes, it was a very welcome change of pace.
See the full collection below.