J.Crew's womenswear sales may be looking a bit dour, but the mood at its fall 2015 presentation at Lincoln Center Tuesday morning was patently optimistic. The collection revisited and reworked the signatures for which the brand has been so celebrated under Jenna Lyons and Mickey Drexler: dressy mixed with casual, menswear-inspired cuts juxtaposed with the unabashedly feminine: feathers, sequins, pointed heels, bright colors and lips.
We were particularly taken with an elongated gray wool blazer with oversized pockets and long ribbed cuffs, styled to look like a pantsuit with wide-legged trousers in Prince of Wales check. A cropped olive green leather biker jacket was another standout, as was a dressy silk/wool blend jumpsuit in white, which featured a buttoned, notched lapel front and lines that ran clean from lapels to hem without stopping at a waistband. There were nods to current runway trends in '70s-inspired leather and suede fringed skirts, and also in the use of shearling and colorful faux fur on jackets, coats and scarves.
Tom Mora, J.Crew's head womenswear designer, said the collection began with "Checkered Past," a collection of photographs of the leading artists, designers and socialites of the late '60s and '70s: Cecil Beaton, David Hockney, Paloma Picasso, Yves Saint Laurent, Twiggy. Mara describes the book as "nostalgic," "chic" and "inspiring" -- good words to describe J.Crew's fall collection, too.