Saying that you never know what to expect when you walk into a Jeremy Scott show might be the biggest understatement of Fashion Month, but the title of this season’s collection, “Dolly Pattern,” should have majorly clued us in. As the designer’s show began at Milk Studios on Wednesday afternoon (right after the omnipresent Kanye West took his seat in the front row), the room shook with bass — seriously, I think I felt it in my teeth — and models walked out to a soundtrack of which the only discernible lyrics were "lemonade" and "candy boys." Unsurprisingly, this was an appropriate accompaniment the clothing that followed.
Inspired by baby clothes and dolls, the collection was chock-full of cutesy details, including white frilly sleeves, bib necklines, bows, childlike patterns of bunnies and ponies sewn together haphazardly to look like quilts, and even a bonnet. But it wouldn't be a Jeremy Scott show without some trippy, sexy elements thrown in: Model Charlotte Free wore an oversized, fuzzy pink teddy bear coat with seemingly nothing underneath, a candy striped two-piece was rendered in latex and hemlines as a whole were on the very short side.
The voluminous, clown-like finale looks appeared to be splatter painted, rounding out the kiddish show with an element of art project chic. As for the Dolly Parton reference in the title? The last models to walk came down the runway to a cover of the country singer’s hit “Jolene,” but only for a brief moment until the bass picked back up for the finale.
When it came to the beauty look, makeup artist Kabuki said he wanted to transform the girls into pop art dolls. He accomplished this by using MAC acrylic paints in four different neon colors, painted on the lid and up through the brow. The makeup was soft with "rounded edges, so it goes with the nursery, baby-safe vibe and takes away from reading as aggressive," he said. Hair stylist Eugene Souleiman took the theme to the next level, using $22.50 wigs that called to mind Japanese dolls. "Everything about this is fake. Fake wig, fake hair color, fake cuts," he said.
When Scott originally approached Souleiman about doing colored hair, the stylist told him, "It’s kinda been done quite a few times, Jeremy." Scott’s response: "Yeah I know, but it would really help the collection if there was some kind of color." And so Souleiman obliged with neon smears on top of each "hacked" bob. The whole look was topped off by nails, courtesy of Miss Pop, which she described as a “Mary Jane French,” inspired by the white Mary Janes and colored tights the models wore. She emptied about a 10th of the bottle of top coat and added a few drops of bright, opaque colors, then painted on the resulting diluted color for a tint or wash effect before striping on the design.
Additional reporting by Cheryl Wischhover.