Last season, Marc Jacobs sent his models down the runway wearing absolutely no makeup and shaggy wigs. This season he went the opposite direction with dark eggplant lips, silver eyes, revolutionary eyebrows and a top knot gone awry.
According to his beauty team, Jacobs wanted to channel a sophisticated, eccentric lady who never leaves the house without looking impeccable. "He wanted something much more considered, not easy breezy, wearing uptown clothes but wearing downtown-hair -- that’s not what he wanted to see," hair stylist Guido Palau said backstage before the show. Both Palau and longtime Marc Jacobs makeup collaborator Francois Nars mentioned that the swans -- think Babe Paley -- of the '50s and '60s were an inspiration for Jacobs this season, as well as Diana Vreeland's quirky style.
For the makeup, Nars created a beautiful shimmery greige-taupe eye that turned silvery when the team added gloss to the eye. He purposely did not use mascara "just to bring more strangeness to the eye" so the look didn't skew "commercial." The centerpiece of the makeup was the dark goth lip. Lipstick has been pretty absent on runways lately, but Nars said, "It fits the girl Marc wants to see." The rest of the face was kept starkly matte without shine. What jumped out most, in this era of bushy brows, were the almost Marlene Dietrich-like arches the models sported. The narrow, straight brows actually looked new and fresh. Jacobs wanted them "not too thick and not too thin." They actually look just right to me.
The hair, at its core, is a ponytail turned into a knot, but topsy-turvy. Palau pulled all the hair forward, to elongate the neck. "Dragging the hair up this way accentuates the neck and the jaw and the bones which is what Marc was into," Palau said. "It makes them like an illustration in a way, which was part of his inspiration as well." Can this front knot possibly replace the Kim Kardashian-popularized high top knot that is finally starting to wane? Maybe. Palau claimed it looked good and more appropriate for the real world when he did a "scruffy" version on the models the day before the show. If you want the severe version, use lots of Redken Control Addict spray and Guts volume spray foam. It's obviously a very editorial look.
Let's not forget the nails. Jacobs created two new polishes for the show, a red called Poison Apple and a white called White Snow. The red nails were made to look like a perfect and pristine manicure that had grown out slightly and had a new topcoat put on top. Still perfect, but slightly imperfect. It had a less intense half moon effect that was subtle and sophisticated. For inspiration, Jacobs showed manicurist Jin Soon Choi a picture of a Hollywood starlet with a semi grown-out mani, and she recreated the look on press-on nails.
Marc Jacobs obviously DGAF about runway trends. Bless him.