For having just signed a licensing agreement, one might expect a designer to ramp things up on the runway, both from a spectacle and a design perspective.
Instead, Nanette Lepore, who recently signed with Bluestar Alliance to expand into a lifestyle brand, is using this as a time to do exactly what she wants. For fall 2015, that meant scaling everything back, starting with leaving Lincoln Center for a smaller venue in the Meatpacking District.
"I was going to change venues no matter what," she said ahead of her runway on Wednesday. "I was considering doing something at a small restaurant by my house, but we found this one and it feels smaller and more intimate, so we just went for it."
It was a nice change of pace for the designer, who seemed more able to enjoy the prep time backstage — including greeting famous friends like John Slattery, Steve Buscemi and Vanessa Bayer — in the quieter environment at Pop14. "I think it's the chaos of the tents, all that noise, people testing their music next to you really loud and all that stuff," she said of making the switch. "It's kind of odd, but we have to get used to this feeling of calm. "
Even the collection itself was pared down to just 23 looks. Lepore went with the theme "Posh Rebel," which meant going for a "cool girls wearing the boys' clothes" vibe. "My initial feeling is that I just wanted to create this great environment, in this place that felt warm and cozy for the winter," Lepore says. "From there it went to the idea of men's clubs," which translated into architectural prints, smoky blues and marsala berries, and military detailing like cape sleeves and button embellishments.