While some shows are memorable because of a theme, an obvious inspiration point or the celebrities in the front row, Narciso Rodriguez's is all about the clothes.
As his lithe, clean-cut designs came down the dark, minimalist runway Tuesday night, the first things you noticed were the intriguing details on otherwise classic shapes -- an exaggerated high waist on pants and skirts, contrasting lapels on vests and jackets, subtle and vaguely athletic seams on sheer tops, rectangular bands of fabric across the chest -- touches that remind you how carefully considered every detail is. For a fall collection, it all felt incredibly light. The conservative use of sherbert oranges and pinks in the mostly black and white collection added to that lightness.
But for the most part it was about the long, lean lines and the tailoring: super-thin tops and bras in jersey and crepe that hugged models' willowy bodies (and these models were skinnier than most, I think); evening dresses cut within an inch of a nip slip (in a very classy way); and loose, sleeveless vests and coats. They were pieces that would elongate any frame -- but would look best on the slim. "To be tall, thin and able to afford Narciso Rodriguez..." I thought to myself. Guess I'll just have to settle for the perfume.