Temperatures clocked in at a whopping seven degrees as we made our way to Prabal Gurung’s fall show on Sunday night, and it seems that the designer knew exactly what his frozen audience wanted to see walk down the runway: lots of layers, long coats, textural knitwear and more than just a hint of fur.
In his show notes, Gurung sites a trip he took to the Adirondack Mountains in upstate New York as inspiration (following up on last season’s trek to the Himalayas), and this theme came through in a number of ways. A tribal-meets-Fair Isle motif permeated much of the collection, with arrowhead patterns knit into sweaters, coats and embroidered on the sparkly finale dresses. Heavy duffle coats made from wool and cashmere — many of which were trimmed with bright white fur — were layered over slinky, silk slip dresses and skirts with thigh-high slits. A snow leopard pattern was printed on dresses and outerwear as a nod to Gurung's love for the mountains. From start to end, tailoring took center stage: even the simplest dresses and separates — some with lace or silk inserts to reveal a bit more skin — beautifully showed off the body.
Every season, Gurung has a strong, confident woman in mind who challenges conventional beauty, and this really came across in his fall 2015 casting. Instead of relying on the “It” models of the moment, the designer featured some of the biggest names of the past two decades, including Kirsty Hume, Christina Kruse, Frankie Rayder and Tasha Tilberg, whose ages all fall within the mid-30s to early-40s range. These women — along with Caroline Trentini who closed the show — have children, stellar careers and a self-assurance that can only come with experience, and seeing them walk in Gurung’s sexy (yet ageless) looks made the show that much more memorable.