Bonjour, Paris! Our fall 2015 collection coverage is wrapping up in fashion's first city. For more of our Paris Fashion Week coverage, click here.
On Wednesday morning, Christophe Lemaire and partner Sarah-Linh Tran presented their first collection since the former said goodbye to Hermès in summer, 2014. Lemaire is a consistent designer, and he offered plenty of outstanding separates for his fast-growing fanbase. It's not crazy to think that the brand has the potential to become as popular in America as Isabel Marant, thanks to his knack for creating subtly special clothes: scarf skirts with long belts, double-layer overcoats and cone-heel wedges were all must-buys.
There was one surprise, though: Along with elegant fashion, Lemaire gave us Boob Citing Number #2 of the week, fashioning leather handbags out of bosoms. Certainly not the last we’ll see of the nipple this #PFW. – Lauren Sherman
Dries Van Noten
In the show notes, Dries Van Noten described his fall collection as "grounded glamour," inspired by the "true style icons of recent generations." Several of those icons were featured on the soundtrack, which was a compilation of a cappella performances including Courtney Love singing "Celebrity Skin" and Beyonce singing "Independent Women." (To achieve that sound, it seemed that the background voices and music had been stripped from the original recording — a neat trick. I wonder what Kanye West, who arrived just a tad later than the rest of us, thought of it.) The music framed the metallic florals, khaki ball gown skirts and handcrafted flowers that decorated several necklines. It was all expertly arranged, dealing in the contrasts Van Noten adores exploring, without ever feeling overwrought. Hours later, I overheard a department store fashion director opining to a friend: "Dries was just beautiful. So, so beautiful." Indeed, it was. – Lauren Sherman
Sonia by Sonia Rykiel
Illustrator/It girl Langley Fox Hemingway is now the face of Sonia by Sonia Rykiel. The brand's creative studio chose Hemingway because of her charm and Parisian spirit, even though she's American. And it's a match: she perfectly embodies fall's rock 'n' roll, punk-inspired collection. Among the muse's wardrobe staples is a striped red and black cardigan, a fitted tuxedo printed with masculine checks, a tailored cape and paper clip-shaped jewelry. But even though she's a rocker at heart, she stays true to her Parisian roots by wearing leather Mary Janes, a little lace black dress or a surprisingly soft faux-fur coat. It's all about balance. – Margault Antonini
Pierre Hardy's fall footwear collection will catch anyone's attention, not because it's flashy, but because it's distinct. Among our favorites? The "Splash," which was printed with one of Hardy's own drawings and the "Ace," an edgy Mary Jane with a 3-D cube heel. There were also bow sneakers, laser-cut sandals and perfect boots, among many other pieces. Thanks to Hardy, our fall wish list is filling up fast. – Margault Antonini
Rochas turns 90 this year, and so designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua looked to the house's extensive archives to build his fall collection. There was a jazzy touch in his bustier tops and spangly heels, a riff on last season's shoe. But in general, it was all about beautiful classics: bow-tied blouses in marigold alpaca, belted shifts in mink and bird-appliquéd cocktail numbers. People talk a lot about wearable fashion, but these pieces were buyable. Not as easy thing to pull off. – Lauren Sherman
H&M's Paris Fashion Week runway shows are all about showmanship. This season, the fast-fashion juggernaut crafted a set made to look like the surface of the moon. Before the models began walking, Caroline de Maigret came out in a metallic silver spacesuit and spent two or three minutes doing what I can only describe as playing make-believe spaceship. Anyway, the models — from Kendall Jenner to Edie Campbell — were the main attraction, and their smiling faces didn't disappoint. As for the clothes? Sporty, ski-inspired gear dominated, but the standout was a cream turtleneck, jacket and pants look.
One has to wonder, though, if H&M wouldn't benefit from hosting an event like this in the offseason when editors aren't so exhausted. People like the brand — and they like that it advertises — but when a show is less about fashion and more about grandstanding, resentment for occupying precious time can set in quickly. – Lauren Sherman