Like Phoebe Philo at Céline, Nicolas Ghesquière is one of the few designers who can claim to set fashion's agenda each season. On Wednesday, in the domed event space connected to the Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton, the creative director once again defined next season's silhouettes. There was a slim (but not too narrow) cropped pant worn with Mary Janes, a ribbed-knit tank with a molded hem that belled out ever so slightly and a cropped collarless jacket rendered in a jellyfish brocade (with a brooch to match). The fitted lace slip dresses also looked quite new, as did his furry and metallic takes on the traditional LV trunk. All things, coincidentally, that would look great on his celebrity front row guests: Michelle Williams, Jennifer Connelly and Catherine Deneuve.
We know that Louis Vuitton is a branding machine, but Ghesquière has established it as a fashion leader as well, which is important because the tastes of its customers — most notably in Asia — are becoming increasingly discerning. It's a fascinating thing to see unfold from every angle.
After the show, guests were invited to take a look around Fondation Louis Vuitton. The building is striking, and the art on display compelling. In one space, I watched Kanye West's new "All Day" video alongside LVMH exec Antoine Arnault, Natalia Vodianova and Mario Testino. Not a terrible way to begin the last day of Paris Fashion Week.