Fashion Month is a marathon, not a sprint, and after two weeks of nonstop runway action in New York and London, we've made it to Milan. Read on for our highlights of day four of Milan Fashion Week.
Perhaps it was the cross-body bags that recalled sword sashes, the vaguely tribal earrings, the clean (almost ninja-like) tunics or the thick waist belts in rich leather and python, but the Marni women looked like warriors as they came down the runway on Sunday. Many of the elongated silhouettes were raw at the edges and cut asymmetrically or slashed at the sides, revealing layers of color as the models moved. Fur was prominent, used on strong-looking coat sleeves, collars, belts and pockets. I'm not sure how one goes about signing up to become a part of this Marni army, but I'd like to submit my name, please.
This season, Massimo Giorgetti forwent the digital prints that made him famous, relying instead on shocking colors, interesting textures and funky silhouettes to make a statement. Otherwise simple coats, tops and dresses had large ties at the neck, which were pretty ingenious alternatives to scarves, though Giorgetti had those, too -- oversized versions in bright, color-blocked mohair. Kicky pants flared out in a bell shape at the calf (which would likely be very unflattering on someone without model proportions); long coats and vests were cinched at the waist with robe belts in contrasting colors and there were appliqués aplenty, some floppy and heart-shaped, others that recalled a crocheted art project. All in all, it was a fun feast for the eyes (and for the ears, as the soundtrack consisted of one of my personal favorite '80s tunes, "Tom's Diner").
Like so many other designers this season, Giorgetti had an arsenal of statement furs in the MSGM lineup, including two fun coats that closed the show which were accented with a tinsel-like material for extra sparkle. As a piece of added flair, many of the solid-colored looks were adorned with cool, sculptural brooches, which have turned out to be a ubiquitous (and very easy to emulate) trend for fall.
Through most of the Salvatore Ferragamo show, I kept my eyes focused on the color-blocked carpet runway. Not because it looked cozy enough to nap on (and trust me, I really wanted a nap), but because the collection's shoes were some of the coolest I've seen all month. On one pair, the heel resembled stairs, with metallic cubes stacked diagonally on top of each other; on another, a curved, striped heel looked like a rainbow of silver and gold.
The geometric motif carried through the collection as well, with my favorite looks being those that closed the show: A series of easy, elegant silk dresses and one wild coat made from strips of different colored fur (and I swear I didn't like it just because Anna Ewers was wearing it). The audience also got a kick out of some knit ponchos in a stretchy material that bounced buoyantly as models walked down the runway — those made for a great slo-mo Instagram video or two.
I never thought it was possible to want an entire wardrobe made from leather (if I had the budget for such a thing) until I left the Trussardi show. Designer Gaia Trussardi used plongé leather — a very thin, soft version that looked as fluid as fabric as it walked down the runway — to create loose-fitting trousers, jumpsuits, skirts and camisoles that were surprisingly easy-breezy, in a color palette that can best be summed up as "fifty shades of greige." (Sorry, I had to.) A lace slip dress? Yes, it can be done — and done well.
There have been hints of it here and there throughout Fashion Month, but Missoni's show on Sunday night seemed to make it official: the '80s are back, folks! Designer Angela Missoni got flashier for fall, with shoulder-padded jackets, bodycon dresses (many of which had cutouts or were one-shouldered), lots of shiny lurex and an electric color palette that ranged from orange to purple to cherry red, often all worn clashing together. There was also a hat tip to the activewear trend — although it read more "flashdance" than "street style" — in the form of bodysuits, aerobics-ready leggings and arm warmers. Personally, I think I'll stick to my Nikes and simple sweatshirts.